The Heat

Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock. Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience! Niagara Glen Bouldering The Phoenix | V11 (1:26) Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16) Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26) Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16) The Heat | V11 (9:48) As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right?? Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott Check out my website for: - Climbing Injury Consultations - Climbing Strength Assessments - Coaching and Programming https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/ #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

The second in a series of videos covering 30+ Niagara Glen V4 boulders. Rain/heat/poison ivy couldn't keep me from seven more on this short trip seeking out some more obscure problems. Cedar also came down off her V6s to add a V4 classic. Lots more work still to go in my quest for #AllTheV4s Our Niagara Glen V4 series featuring 30+ problems: Pt 1 - Some Classics - https://youtu.be/_ASSDaFR_XU Pt 2 - Beyond the Classics - https://youtu.be/gGDlJ9LTEl4 Pt 3 - Short and Sweet - https://youtu.be/T4Jg8wVJ6mM Pt 4 - Nine More V4s - https://youtu.be/bcNXeoxPc5g INTRO (0:00) Beast Man V5- (0:20) - 3 different betas for this Vfun game 4 Star Arete V4 (1:32) - very nice, high quality Cheese V4- (2:08) - easy Baguette V4- (2:50) - easier X-Files V4 (3:19) - nice! Thelemic "V4" (4:09) - nice movements but more like V2- Immaculate/Contraption V4/3 (4:31) - without the book, I mashed-up 2 problems Love of My Life V4 (4:57) - classic! Climbers: @hendryclimbing and @hendrycedar Notes: 1. Top outs are now allowed on most boulders. 2. (-) indicates we felt the grade was a soft and (+) indicates we felt it was stiff. Thelemic is the only one that is way off the grade in the book - and Beast Man is hard to grade (but V5 is too soft). 3. Excellent betas for harder problems are at @boulderingbreakdown https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2neaoj-kSprnmmAoWyJLQg #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #bouldering #climbing #v4boulders #v4niagara #v4glen #allthev4s

An old video of me sending BFF back in June of 2018. I'm working on the Heat v11 now which is an extension so its nice to have this as a resource for beta (even though my Heat beta is slightly different)

Feels so good to put this one down. Punted literally the very last move to the jug at the lip three sessions in a row. Finally found some good micro beta and went first try of the day.

My flash go of Bonfire Rodeo. Happy to get it in one go! Now I gotta do BFF and then The Heat