Land of Oz
Grade Distribution
| Name | Grade | Star rating | Traits | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ankle Tape | V0- | - | SDS, climb the first arête you come to walking down the trail from ToTo. | |
| Arête | V0- | - | SDS under overhanging arête. Grab an undercling & good edge low. Work your way up using superb holds on arête. | |
| Hueco | V0- | ⭐⭐ | Start using the 2 big huecos. | |
| Mantle | V0- | - | Mantle slab without using any holds on slab or arête. | |
| Right of Standard | V0- | ⭐⭐ | Start same as Standard, but veer right at the ledges. | |
| Sandals | V0- | - | SDS in middle of face; move up to a ledge & finish. | |
| Standard | V0- | - | Climb the huecos all the way to the top. | |
| Standard | V0- | - | Start in the middle of the boulder on a log. Climb straight up to the top. | |
| Traverse | V0- | - | Climb all the way around the boulder using all of the jugs. | |
| Copycat | V0 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in the middle of the right face. Grab the "doorknob" & crank through pockets. TO. | |
| Easy Peasy | V0 | - | SDS on the right side of the corner. Move up past the 4 inch ledge. | |
| Herbie | V0 | ⭐ | Start down low on the left side of the little guy. Traverse all the way around on the slopey pumpers. | |
| Jim's Arête | V0 | - | SDS on the prominent arête straight across Kneebar. Climb the arête to the top. | |
| Poutine | V0 | ⭐ | Start at the overhang, go through the crack. | |
| Spaghetti | V0 | - | Climb the face up to the huge block & the top. | |
| Tornado | V0 | - | Start on the dual underclings down low. Climb straight up through the weird rock to the top. | |
| Whitewall | V0 | ⭐ | Around the corner of Knee Bar, climb the face. | |
| Awe | V0+ | - | On the right side of the back face. SDS on obvious holds. Move to ledge, dyno to the pocket above. | |
| Bringing up the Rear | V0+ | ⭐ | Climb the left side of the back face. Starting on a pinch & a high-step. | |
| Lapidary | V0+ | - | Climb the line up the easy face on the southwest corner of the boulder. | |
| Standard | V0+ | - | Start on far right side of the front face, traverse through pockets, finish on the upper left corner. | |
| Conundrum | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Start on far right side of main face. Traverse left to broken corner. | |
| Dear Blanacing Rock | V1 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of Girls on slot/pocket(right), pinch(left). Up/left around corner on pockets/sidepull to ledge. | |
| Dear Caboose | V1 | ⭐ | SDS on sidepull & edge at incut between Thunder & Action. Up/left on pockets to big edges finish on Action. | |
| Dear Miss Phatty Slopper | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under overhang 6 ft right of Achilles on 2 large pockets. Up to jug past edges & sloper. | |
| Disintegration | V1 | - | Start anywhere on the boulder, traverse the whole thing. | |
| Honeymooners | V1 | ⭐ | SDS deep on left horizontal ledge. Hit 2 holds at lip & rock on good foot to hit huge ledge & another one. | |
| JL Crimps | V1 | ⭐ | SDS in middle of boulder. Crimp up sidepulls & edges to the top. | |
| Nuno | V1 | - | SDS on the laybacks crank to the top through pockets. | |
| Panzy | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Start in the middle of the face, which faces the river. Crank through pockets to the top. | |
| Right | V1 | ⭐ | SDS on the big semi-loose block. Climb up through easy pockets to the TO. | |
| Sandalia | V1 | - | Start as for Pump Traverse, but move right & climb the arête. | |
| The Dude of Life | V1 | ⭐ | SDS on big moss covered boulder on ledges at far left. Traverse right around bulge to the finish way right. | |
| The V Traverse | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on far left side on low pockets right of arête. Traverse right using line of pockets about 5-7ft up. Cross right dihedral to far right arête, pull right around onto mossy face (just before the moss) & reach for top ledge. | |
| Thumbtack | V1 | - | SDS on the left side on the rock "seat". Use the four pockets & dyno to the top. | |
| Zipper | V1 | - | Start on the far right side. Traverse low while moving left, use the tweaker pockets. Big jugs on top are taboo. | |
| Goggle Head | V2 | ⭐ | Start between Immaculate & Mellow on 2 connected pockets, which look like goggles. Dyno to top & TO. | |
| Hierarchy | V2 | ⭐ | Right on positive corner, left on ledge texture. Step up on pocket & high/left for blind incut. Slap for jugs on top. | |
| I do I do | V2 | ⭐ | Go back left & downhill from Yes Dear. A SDS crux start, then trend up/right until you can traverse to down climb. | |
| Monkeyfist | V2 | - | Back of boulder, facing river. SDS on undercling & slopey jug. Move to very positive knobby crimp to left, then sloper up high to right. Bump left to a 2-finger sidepull, then to another small triangular pocket left. Finish on top of arête & TO. | |
| Pump Traverse | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Start far right on 2 left facing sidepulls. Crank jugs to far left side. Finish on big horn. Var V4 Do the Pump Traverse back & forth. | |
| Root Canal | V2 | - | SDS 3 feet right of Stretch on underclings. Up to sidepull - shoot for giant sharp pocket. TO. | |
| Somethin' for Nothin' | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS in middle of face in crystallized pocket. Traverse left to good ledges, jump to bucket up left. TO. | |
| The Witchita Express | V2 | ⭐⭐ | On opposite face of All Aboard, up from Monogram. SDS in middle of face on sidepulls. Throw to pinch & climb jugs to top. | |
| To Have & To Hold | V2 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner to right of Yes Dear. SDS far right on jug, traverse to left/up & TO. | |
| Variance | V2 | ⭐ | Top Out | Sit start on a high pocket and the left arête, top out. |
| God Must Be A Climber | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on obvious flake around corner. Traverse left, to HUGE slopers. Finish on top. | |
| Immaculate | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start on obvious ledge at mid-height. Crank to twin pockets & dyno to top & TO. | |
| Immaculate Contraption | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Immaculate. Move up to pocket, then right to arête. TO at far right side. | |
| Knee Bar | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS | |
| Loose Caboose | V3 | ⭐ | Start on right arête using pinch & pocket. Traverse entire right face. | |
| Mellow Nasty | V3 | ⭐ | SDS 4ft left of Immaculate on 1/2 moon shaped sidepull. Up/right on slopers & crimps avoiding large pockets. | |
| Middle | V3 | ⭐ | SDS. Cruise up the middle of the face starting on the 2 pockets. TO. | |
| Pocket Traverse | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on right side of back face on huge hueco-like pockets. Traverse line of pockets left across face until you can move up to large vertical crack before big ramp. Move up to big ledges then finish. TO. | |
| Prenup | V3 | ⭐ | Start right of Honeymoon - on giant shelf. Move up face on smallish holds to large ledge - drop down. | |
| Quantum Liaisons | V3 | ⭐ | SDS right of ‘Copycat’. RH in hidden pocket/pinch & LH on anything. Pull slopey pockets to top. | |
| Stress Free | V3 | ⭐ | SDS on good left crimp, right sidepull pocket. Get positive ledge then vertical crack. Step off or finish Hierarchy. | |
| Stretch Armstrong's Summer Vacation | V3 | - | Start on 2 small ledges in alcove on main face. Climb through pockets to top. | |
| Twist Tie | V3 | - | Start on the pocket & the pinch, which is usually wet. Continue straight up using sidepulls & pockets. TO. | |
| Winter Retreat | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Stretch, edge/spike left , sidepull right. Left to Stretch start, to giant flake, dyno to top. TO. | |
| Yes Dear | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start at slanting jugs. Dyno to huge finish or up on slanting crimp, throw to top. Easier if you are tall. SDS is V6. | |
| Action Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2/3-finger pockets on left arête. Using left sidepull, cruise up to 1/2-finger pocket, right to ledge & finish. (Big pockets right/left out). | |
| All Aboard | V4 | - | Start on right side in small pockets. Traverse entire face. Stay low avoiding big jugs on top. | |
| Bloody Tips | V4 | - | Start on God on far right slopey jug. Throw to the top. | |
| Dang Me | V4 | - | SDS in middle of boulder & grab an edge & mono undercling type of thing. Throw to left hand pinch & cruise to top. | |
| Left Arête | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on sharp left arête with both hands. Move on pockets/edges to TO, stay off large pockets of V Traverse. | |
| Left Hard | V4 | ⭐ | SDS. Cruise up through crimps & a lunge to the top. TO. | |
| Monogram | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 3ft right of Thunder on silly mono. Cruise through the small pockets staying off Thunder & Lightening. | |
| Rubberband | V4 | - | Start on ledge & sloper pocket on left face. Traverse around right onto big flake, right/up to ledge at ¾ height. | |
| Wicked Witch of the West | V4 | - | SDS on underclings. Climb face up/left to sloper pocket to top. Var V6 Avoid holds NEAR seam. | |
| Bottlerocket | V4+ | - | This problem is right of A. heel opposite the tree. Match on sharp plate. Use slopers to get a good pocket. Topout on pockets and edges. | |
| Hector's Toehook | V4+ | - | Same start as achilles at the second jug bust right to some slopers and work out to good triangular pinch then topout. | |
| Achilles Heel | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under the hang directly to the right of the trail. Cruise straight out through the hang & to the top. | |
| Brave New World | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on 2 sidepulls left of finish of Pump Traverse. Lunge to sloper, then turn lip & TO. | |
| Dung Beetle | V5 | - | Start right side on large jugs. Traverse left using crimps/slopers along lip & those above lip on slab. TO around corner. | |
| Thunder and Lightning | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the pockets. Lunge to the monster slopers then up right to an edge. Finish on top. | |
| Tractorbeam Traverse | V5 | ⭐ | Start on far left backside. Traverse right, entire lip of boulder. Mantle using slot & 2-finger pocket. | |
| Dung Beetle Intercourse | V6 | - | Do Dung Beetle backwards down climbing the face opposite the start & walk off at the start jug. | |
| Horshack's Last Dance | V6 | - | Start at 2-finger pocket & sidepull staying right of huge dish, crank up through small pockets to top. | |
| Husbands & Lies | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Horshack's. Traverse right on holds at lip of slab to slopey pocket on Wicked. TO. | |
| Open Forum | V6 | ⭐ | SDS left side. RH undercling, LH pinching beside, textured left heel hook. Slap up to slopey dish & big pocket/edge. TO. | |
| Paris' Weakness | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Girls’ on sharp tooth and undercling pull with heel-toe cam, head up left to sloper then large move out right to large gaston rail. | |
| Previously Tapped | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Girls on left hand gaston. Do hard drop knee to reach pocket. Climb up to clean TO. | |
| SuperCell | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for ‘Thunder’, at edge, reach around corner to vertical seam. Traverse on crimps & shallow 2-finger pockets. Continue to far right arête. Follows obvious lower line. | |
| The Doors of Perception | V6 | - | Start as Brave New World, finish on the right jug horn. Top out. | |
| The Hunter | V6+ | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Snake Eyes. Move straight up right hand face to obvious large ledge. | |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. | |
| Girls of Cheektowaga | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge | |
| Mostly Harmless | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for ‘Winter’, into ‘Stretch’ knob hold, right to sharp mono pocket & sloper with ¼ pad crimp. Reach up to sidepull finish for stretch. | |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. | |
| Big Mac Deal wis Beer | V8 | - | SDS 2m left of Royal on 2 large pockets, out roof on long pulls to pocket at lip, heel hook & slap your way up face. | |
| Death Trap | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Brave’ low on slotted pocket & block, up/right to undercling to small left hand crimp, big move to ‘Brave’ pinch with right then cross over to crimp above it then toss to finish horn to right at the lip, TO. | |
| Sexual Inadequacy | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Snakes Eyes, straight up to crimpy pinch & bust left to crimp & up arete. TO. | |
| Snake Eyes | V8 | ⭐ | SDS on right arête at an awkward rail. Move left through large pocket to slopers & up the arête. TO. | |
| The Honeymoon | V8 | - | SDS in horiz crack at back of roof. Go to lip. Use edges, crimps, slopers & arête to reach jugs. |