Roach Motel

Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021. 0:00 Intro 0:03 Wisecrack V0 0:38 Dustinator V2 1:23 Roach Motel V3 2:10 Razor’s Edge V3 2:52 If God Was A Climber V4 4:06 Psilocybin Roof (NTO) V3 4:57 On Thirst Foughts V4 5:55 No U Turn Sit (Gaston Variation) V4 6:44 Yes Dear (Dyno) V4/5 7:20 Hellfire V5 8:15 Balance V5 9:04 Floryshe Left/Love of My Life Direct V6 9:34 Rock Lee V6 (2nd Asc. By Aidan) FA’d by James A 9:57 Carpet Munching Diablos V7 10:34 Closed Eye Visuals V9 11:09 A Cry For Deliverance V10 12:00 Seppuku V10 13:43 The Phoenix V11 Grades: Grades are the opinion of the climber, so there might be some variance compared to guidebooks/other websites etc. Psilocybin Roof (NTO): The original Psilocybin Roof line had a chossy topout with a sketchy landing so I dropped off at the massive jug which seemed like a good natural finish point. No U Turn SDS (Gaston Variation): I used a slightly higher left hand Gaston for the No U Turn SDS line. It’s much easier than the lower left crimp and possibly morpho but climbs super well. Interested to see if anyone has trouble reaching the left hand from the ground. Rock Lee: I spent a few sessions over 2 years looking at this thing and never fully committed to the dyno. Having a psyched crew of crushers lead to James A getting the FA on April 9th 2020 followed by Aidan A and finally myself. Others have managed to static the move with a toe hook making the move easier. Yes Dear (Dyno): There’s not too many dynos in the glen that are clean, committing, and have good landings. This is definitely a nice/fun challenge if you’re in the area and like to jump.