The Gunt

Dude, hell yeah. I've been suffering from double digit send withdrawal. That night I woke up at 5, couldn't go back to sleep, so I rolled out of bed having slept 4 hours. The previous day I slept 6 hours, interrupted after like an hour or 2, so pretty bad. I pulled this out of my ass. The two important microbeta was to hit the sloper crimp slightly more right than I think (don't just go all the way left to the crack), make sure your pinky is on. Then the holy grail was me switching from a right toe down with open hip to a twisting drop knee to get the sidepull. I was always better at this twisting, but assuming this move forced the open hips. I saw it done in person with the twist knee, and the moment I tried it, I knew I had it in the bag. It makes the top so much easier for me.

Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock. Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience! Niagara Glen Bouldering The Phoenix | V11 (1:26) Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16) Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26) Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16) The Heat | V11 (9:48) As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right?? Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott Check out my website for: - Climbing Injury Consultations - Climbing Strength Assessments - Coaching and Programming https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/ #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

Neighbourhood

Bouldering Session at the Niagara Glen on The Gunt (v10), Smoke the Dutchess (v9) and Funk Schwey (v10). Me sending Funk Schwey, Keith easily doing the crux move on Smoke the Dutchess, Funny Moments, Beta talk and some extra footage at the end of Jack taking a nasty fall off Smoke the Dutchess.

Bouldering in the Niagara Glen. Climbers: Dave Heerema & JM Poulin Climbs: Arete Love V1, Foot Fetish V3, Super Sharp Shooter V6, The Gunt V11 Respect Glen access - No vegetated topouts This video was previously on vimeo but due to the soundtrack I had to remove the audio track and upload it to youtube.

Finally ... my first Glen @ Ten video! For me, the contents of this video are a big deal! I put in a lot of hard work to get to this point and I am very proud of what I was able to accomplish fall of 2018. I hope others can draw inspiration and psych from this video! Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop Closed Eye Visuals | V9 (0:10) BFF | V10 (1:47) A Cry For Deliverance | V10- (4:13) Seppuku | V10 (5:32) The Gunt | V10/11 (8:34) Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience. "-" = soft / "+" = hard For More Thoughts: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

A collection of bouldering videos from the past couple years at Niagara Glen. (0:18) Closed Eye Visuals V9 (0:58) Rigormortis V9 (1:49) The Real Bruce Lee V9 (Jake Tiger) (2:32) Personal Vendetta V8 (Jake Artibello) (3:22) Zozobra V9 (4:12) Bob's Balancing Balls V8 (Jake Tiger) (5:00) Big Mac Deal Wis Beer V8 (Jakob Elliott) (5:43) The Gunt V10 (6:41) Who Runs Tings V10 (Paul Baczynski) (7:26) Dead Stuff V8 (8:24) Funk Shwey V10 (Jake Tiger) (9:23) A Cry For Deliverance V10 If you're interested in a guidebook for the glen, you can buy one at https://ontariorockclimbing.com/product/niagara-glen-guidebook/ TroyBoi - O.G GRiZ (ft. Brasstracks & Eric Krasno) - Gotta Push On Drapht - Jimmy Recard