New Squamish
Continuing past the cliffline talus, a faint trail will take you to the two large boulders of New Squamish. A great place to warm up if you don't mind the extra approach. The problems aren't quite as epic as their namesakes, but there are a couple of good easy ones. A steep trail will take you down the hill and back to the main approach trail. You can also continue on a faint trail to scramble down the talus to Gatekeeper.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cobra Crack | V0- | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb the face anywhere between the off-width crack and the right side of the face. Several variations. The left side, using the crack is Cobra Crack. |
| Banana Peel | V0 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the high crimp and climb the tall slab, trending slightly right through the obvious L shaped corner/ledge. Climbing straight up and eliminating the L is also worth doing and is only slightly harder. |
| Diedre | V0 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb up the right side of the high slab using the arête. |
| Dreamcatcher | V0 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the broken face left of the offwidth to a glorious juggy lip at the top. The rock is actually pretty solid despite its appearance. |
| Over the Rainbow | V0 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the left side of the slab. |
| The Grand Wall | V0 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the shallow broken corner. Watch for loose rock! |
| Angel's Crest | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb the right side of the arête. |
| Heavy Duty | V1 | ⭐ | Sit start at the low lip of the slab. |
| The Ultimate Everything | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start with your right hand on a side pull jug near the blunt arête. Climb up and slightly left through the ledge. |
| Heavy Fest | V2 | - | A bit of a squeeze job. Start sitting between the two boulders and climb the right side of the arête, trying your best not to dab the boulder behind you. |
| Squamish Buttress | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the face left of the arête. The face climb that eliminates the left arête is only marginally harder. |
| The Facebook Insult | V3 | ⭐ | Start sitting below the arête and climb it. |
| Zombie Roof | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | A real shorty. Sit start on the low jug and surmount the blunt arête. |