On the Other Hand

Dude this gave me so much trouble. It felt good to try this again recently and it felt like the left start hand doubled in size. Probably due to me getting stronger and having better technique.

June 19, 2026 Very unique problem, a new favorite of mine for the grade! How many moves can be done off of a single heel hook?! The moves coming out of the roof didn't take as much out of me as I thought but I misfired a few times on the last bump with the right hand as it's a bit blind. There's a ton of beta options for making it up the face with a variety of good interesting holds. At first I wanted to go more straight on and use the holds out right but getting tension with my right toe to make that happen seemed too difficult as there's not great footholds coming out of the lip. So I used the right heel hook beta which is a bit burly but satisfying! Found plenty of small intermediates to close the distance on the bigger moves as well. The starting hold was so moist when I arrived - I had to spent a lot of time brushing and drying it off. The top out was also a bit grimey - there's plenty to use but I recommend scoping it a bit first because it's hard to tell when you're up there.

June 19, 2026 A bit softer than I was expecting. The move to the lip was pretty easy with good foot placement. The hardest part for me was deciding how to hold the starting block and how to position my feet. Originally I was going to move left hand first but I settled on right hand so that the left could stay pulling on the jug start for longer.

June 19, 2026 First send at the Glen! This is a must-do for the grade - great features and movement with so many beta possibilities. I based my beta around wanting to use the great juggy sidepull out right that I don't see a lot of people using. This made it easier to grab the good part of the next crimp with my left hand, making the "big" move easier too. A nice toe hook helps to avoid some of the polished footholds!

After a couple of years of indoor bouldering under our belt, we decided to kick it up a notch and head outdoors this summer so we could try our hand at touching some “real” rock… 😎🪨🌲✨ …ngl, I’m not the biggest outdoor-activity fan (despite working for a couple of outdoor orgs ✌️😜) but now I can officially say that I’m not a 𝘧𝘢𝘬𝘦 anymore since finding our newest outdoor hobby 🧗 — here’s to more 𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘢𝘭 sends this summer‼️☀️🔝 Ravi https://www.instagram.com/ravigounda/ Arvil https://www.instagram.com/arvil.revesencio/ Caitlyn https://www.instagram.com/lynncateh/ Franz https://www.instagram.com/ffranzv/ Me https://www.instagram.com/urviljames Music: Noah Kahan - Northern Attitude LIFE'S AN ADVENTURE. PLAY WISELY. https://www.GottaLightMyFire.com #NiagaraGlen #Bouldering #ExploreMore

20240414 - I started matched on the block, but left hand should start on the hold left of the block. It's marginally more difficult the way I started.

FINALLY. This took too long, I fell off the last bump like 100 times. The thing that finally unlocked it was a subtle readjust before the cut, it moves the hand ever so slightly better, and it makes the bump so much more solid.

prepare to be underwhelmed. soft hands only

"Zozobra" V9/V10 at the Niagara Glen. Ever since I first stepped foot in the Glen 5 years ago, this climb has been in the back of my head as a life-lister. At the time, I was climbing V6/V7, and I figured I would come back when I felt like I could flash it. I didnt flash it today, but I did do it 4th go. My first go I missed the deep pocket on the first move, and my next two goes I chickened out on the left hand bump move. My fourth go I sent, doing the drop knee move the first time I got there. The movement, holds, and line are spectacular to say the least. 4 stars for sure. The starting holds did break off back in Nov of 2020. I never touched the climb before today, so I can't speak to if it's harder or easier than before. I found the difficult moves to be the first move, and the left hand bump move (third). Both of which were affected by the hold break. Honestly, I thought the drop knee move and top out were pretty chill. Thanks @joeysuster21 for the day trip car company, pads, spots, and stoke. #bouldering #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #niagaraglennaturereserve

Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021. 0:00 Intro 0:03 Wisecrack V0 0:38 Dustinator V2 1:23 Roach Motel V3 2:10 Razor’s Edge V3 2:52 If God Was A Climber V4 4:06 Psilocybin Roof (NTO) V3 4:57 On Thirst Foughts V4 5:55 No U Turn Sit (Gaston Variation) V4 6:44 Yes Dear (Dyno) V4/5 7:20 Hellfire V5 8:15 Balance V5 9:04 Floryshe Left/Love of My Life Direct V6 9:34 Rock Lee V6 (2nd Asc. By Aidan) FA’d by James A 9:57 Carpet Munching Diablos V7 10:34 Closed Eye Visuals V9 11:09 A Cry For Deliverance V10 12:00 Seppuku V10 13:43 The Phoenix V11 Grades: Grades are the opinion of the climber, so there might be some variance compared to guidebooks/other websites etc. Psilocybin Roof (NTO): The original Psilocybin Roof line had a chossy topout with a sketchy landing so I dropped off at the massive jug which seemed like a good natural finish point. No U Turn SDS (Gaston Variation): I used a slightly higher left hand Gaston for the No U Turn SDS line. It’s much easier than the lower left crimp and possibly morpho but climbs super well. Interested to see if anyone has trouble reaching the left hand from the ground. Rock Lee: I spent a few sessions over 2 years looking at this thing and never fully committed to the dyno. Having a psyched crew of crushers lead to James A getting the FA on April 9th 2020 followed by Aidan A and finally myself. Others have managed to static the move with a toe hook making the move easier. Yes Dear (Dyno): There’s not too many dynos in the glen that are clean, committing, and have good landings. This is definitely a nice/fun challenge if you’re in the area and like to jump.

Rule of thumb (V8/7b) Beginning of this year Maria & Ratul climbed a hidden gem on a boulder problem located in Niagara Glen, Old country sector that was tucked away next to the main trail The problem starts on two small crimps that require a badass crossover move before extending out to the featured 'rule of thumb' hold. Then you establish your feet to launch for the top roof edge with your left hand and pull up to top out the sketchy slab climb (Spooky)

This is a climb we made up on our own on our very first trip to the Niagara Glen. It is between a V3 and a V1 climbs on each side of it. It involves lifting off the sit start on a sharper left hand, getting an inside knee and rotating your body weight around your knee and grabbing the side pull ledge. This is climbed by Ian W.

In 2019 Maria sent Black Eagle with a special guest (Alex Megos) viewing her send to steal some beta ;) Subsequently in 2020 Ratul found his send. This boulder problem is located in the Niagara Glen, Central sector. The problem starts in the middle of the dark cave on decent rail edges. There after it requires a technical series of sequence involving a big cross from a shallow crimp into a spock hand hold compression for setting up the feet first exit from the cave before reaching the jug above and outside the cave. Maria Beta: 0:47 Ratul Beta: 2:11

Really proud of this climb as it has eluded me for many months due to risk aversion with the final huge move out left - turns out I just needed to be I’m more confident in my right hand crimp pinching abilities!

Classic boulder with a few different beta options for the crux move. The crux move is the sequence after hitting the left hand crimp.

Left hand variation of "The doors of perception (V6)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Hard for the grade, I found the 2nd move to be the hardest until I found the beta tweaks that worked for me. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Right hand variation of "Brave New World (V5)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Over the past few years I have looked at this boulder every time I was close by and could never understand how to even start... Finally, I committed to giving a real effort to figure this thing out. I offer you: The Minimalist V6 - a classic glen sandbag? Let me know what you guys think FA: Andy Salo Start on the clean blank face of this boulder sitting. Pull off the ground using a left hand undercling and bad right sidepull. Fire to the mail slot and topout on big jugs. Make sure you are really sitting to start, otherwise its easier :) #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

My first v10! I grabbed the crux right hand hold with my front 2 fingers and thumb, and had to readjust to add my ring finger on before I could move off the left hand. #V10 #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #niagraglen

Let me know how you guys like the video! SHOW ME THE SEND: 5:00 Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop Some more beta Ideas below "Red line" variation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yun5HYRS-EM First move left hand up (no heel): https://vimeo.com/167572484 First move right hand up: https://vimeo.com/152347813 Female: https://vimeo.com/166358467 Short: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0RTXPAMlmw Rigomortis Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9Kfn_wRYII #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing