Reflection
V10⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Left of “The Pondering”. Start on the horn, dyno to the lip and top out.
FA: Dawson Shepherd
Videos
| Title | Description | Channel | Published at |
|---|---|---|---|
| ??? | Third ascent. So cool. | ||
| The GLEN Over TEN - V11 Niagara Glen Bouldering | Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock.
Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience!
Niagara Glen Bouldering
The Phoenix | V11 (1:26)
Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16)
Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range
Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26)
Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16)
The Heat | V11 (9:48)
As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right??
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage
For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
Check out my website for:
- Climbing Injury Consultations
- Climbing Strength Assessments
- Coaching and Programming
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | PART 13 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | A few forgotten gems, a couple new additions, recent break re-sends, ultra classics, undesirables, and ego busting sandbags !
Which do you think is which ?? Comment below
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Big Mac Deal Wis Beer | V8+ (7B+) (0:22) - POST BREAK (~late 2020 approx.)
- Has been suggested upgrade to V9. I agree that it felt harder than before. Perhaps 7B+? Lmk below if you get on it and what you think!
Resemblance Low | V6 (1:08) - *NOTE - I've been told that a proper SDS is the way to go and makes the first move harder
Floor Is Lava | proposed V7 (3:12) - FA
I Love Barbie | V3/5 - LOL (3:44)
Pawn Shop | V6 (4:23)
Hey Joe What Do You Know? | V5 (5:06)
Shackled Babies - aka Shackled | V7 (6:10)
Therapist | V4/5 (7:23)
Sofa King Easy | V1 (7:52)
Walking Spanish Down the Glen | V0 (8:12)
No Poetic Justice | V4+ (8:58)
K8 | V5 (9:44)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | PART 12 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Following a finger injury from fall 2020 the winter consistent of rehabbing on a home hang board, which blended into strength training as the injury healed. I came out to the glen spring of 2021 with probably the strongest fingers I’ve ever had, but with very little time actually climbing (lockdowns). No better way to regain time on the rock than sampling some moderate blocks put up recently! Give them a try and let me know how you like them :D
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Concentration Breathing | V6 (0:10) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida
Peace and Love | V6/7? (0:40) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger
Slipper | V5+ (1:07) - FLASH / FA: Brian Fernandes
Semblance | V5- (1:52) - ONSIGHT
English Doodoo | V6/7 (2:44) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida
Street Food | V4- (3:35)
Oral B | V5 (4:16) - POST MOST RECENT BREAK
Pirates of the Caribbean | V7 (5:02) - CONTRIVED (Compress up the face rather than follow up left arête)
Trillibyte | V6- (5:59)
Framonda | V2/3 (6:49) - ONSIGHT
Balrog Battle | V7/8? (7:26) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger
Hunt of the Nazgûl - FA | V6/7? (8:09)
TC | V5 (8:39) - ONSIGHT
Balance | V4+ (9:19)
Deceit and Betrayal | V5 (9:47)
English Voodoo | V9 (10:34)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
"?" = Idk, newer climbs with consolidating grades - lmk what you think !
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | Part 11 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | A fun one ! A couple potential FAs, a few nice moderates, some forgotten lines, and two heart pounding V9s ! OMG was the end to my 2020 season - couldn't have imagined a better way to do it than a send train with a few psyched friends on a perfect late autumn day.
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
TRT - FA? | Proposed V4 (0:10)
Rigormortis | V9 (0:52)
Ruffneck | V6 (1:32)
Glue Babies | V5 (1:53)
Stickler | V6/7? (2:36)
Slaughterhouse - FA | Proposed V8/9 (3:28)
Original Gankster | V4/5 (4:11)
Hellfire | V5+ (4:41)
White Dragon | V7/8? (5:09)
Krymptonite Deluxe | V9 (6:22)
'Campus' Rungs | V1 (7:41)
Cheese | V4 (8:00)
Pegasus | V5/6 (8:37)
Roach Motel | V3 (8:57)
Pulp Friction | V6/7? (9:22)
Monkey Sweat Unlimited | V6- (9:52)
Old Man Gloom | V9 (10:08) - Feat. Jacquie Des Rosiers
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
"?" = Idk seemed quite stiff for the old guide grade - lmk what you think !
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | Part 10 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Woah... 10 of these now! Lots of rare footage in this one ;)
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Black Magic (CONTRIVED) | V6 (0:10)
Pot Mouth | V5/6 (0:50)
Dualism | V9 (1:41)
Path Illogical | V4 (2:16)
Amores Perros (Left Arête ELIMINATED) | V6 (2:58)
The Stand Direct | V6 (3:40)
AlphaOmegaMan SDS | V6 (4:11)
Qi | V6 (5:02)
Previously Tapped | V6+ (6:29)
Hidden In Plain Sight - FA (Currently CLOSED) | V5 (7:08)
The Shining | V6 (8:05)
Kamikaze - FA | Proposed* V7+ (8:52)
Crackhead | V6- (9:28)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | Part 9 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Moderates for days ! Enjoy :)
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Mamma Mia SDS (Eliminate) | V6 (0:10)
Square Root Of V5 | V6/7? (0:35)
Dualism Stand | V7+ (1:43)
Beast Man | V3 (2:36)
Shocking Revelations | V6- (3:00)
What Hands Can Grasp | V7 (3:53)
Golden Eye | V6- (4:48)
Mushroom Pies | V6- (5:56)
At The Beach | V6 (7:18)
Repet (Contrived) | V6/7 (8:03)
Action Potential | V5 (8:46)
The Little Illustrious | V5 (9:50)
Oral B | V6- (10:34) - RH crimp recently broke. Have not confirmed personally
Chuck Norris | V5 (11:09)
Undercover - FA? (Eliminate) | Proposed V7 (11:58)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing |