The Phoenix

There's some upside from being stuck in Phoenix jail for months.

FINALLY. This took too long, I fell off the last bump like 100 times. The thing that finally unlocked it was a subtle readjust before the cut, it moves the hand ever so slightly better, and it makes the bump so much more solid.

Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock. Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience! Niagara Glen Bouldering The Phoenix | V11 (1:26) Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16) Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26) Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16) The Heat | V11 (9:48) As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right?? Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott Check out my website for: - Climbing Injury Consultations - Climbing Strength Assessments - Coaching and Programming https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/ #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021. 0:00 Intro 0:03 Wisecrack V0 0:38 Dustinator V2 1:23 Roach Motel V3 2:10 Razor’s Edge V3 2:52 If God Was A Climber V4 4:06 Psilocybin Roof (NTO) V3 4:57 On Thirst Foughts V4 5:55 No U Turn Sit (Gaston Variation) V4 6:44 Yes Dear (Dyno) V4/5 7:20 Hellfire V5 8:15 Balance V5 9:04 Floryshe Left/Love of My Life Direct V6 9:34 Rock Lee V6 (2nd Asc. By Aidan) FA’d by James A 9:57 Carpet Munching Diablos V7 10:34 Closed Eye Visuals V9 11:09 A Cry For Deliverance V10 12:00 Seppuku V10 13:43 The Phoenix V11 Grades: Grades are the opinion of the climber, so there might be some variance compared to guidebooks/other websites etc. Psilocybin Roof (NTO): The original Psilocybin Roof line had a chossy topout with a sketchy landing so I dropped off at the massive jug which seemed like a good natural finish point. No U Turn SDS (Gaston Variation): I used a slightly higher left hand Gaston for the No U Turn SDS line. It’s much easier than the lower left crimp and possibly morpho but climbs super well. Interested to see if anyone has trouble reaching the left hand from the ground. Rock Lee: I spent a few sessions over 2 years looking at this thing and never fully committed to the dyno. Having a psyched crew of crushers lead to James A getting the FA on April 9th 2020 followed by Aidan A and finally myself. Others have managed to static the move with a toe hook making the move easier. Yes Dear (Dyno): There’s not too many dynos in the glen that are clean, committing, and have good landings. This is definitely a nice/fun challenge if you’re in the area and like to jump.

Video from summer of 2019

The Phoenix was a project of mine since 2012 and I'd put in about 7 sessions on it. It never ever felt any easier and in the end I just had to practice over and over and beat it into submission. The holds are often wet and the pinches drain me. Personally this may be the hardest climb I've ever done. At the end of the video I also include some additional "BONUS FOOTAGE" of a fall so check it out if you want. Problems: The Phoenix V12 This video was previously on vimeo but due to the soundtrack I had to remove the audio track and upload it to youtube.

Alexander Megos takes his first trip to the Niagara Glen and establishes two of the area's harder projects . Climbs: (0:09) Karasu (V12) (1:40) Phoenix From the Ashes (V12 FA) (3:55) Bruce Lee (V12 FA) Filmed by Cisco Juanes and Ethan Salvo Edited by Ethan Salvo Music: Six to Let the Light Shine Tru - Dead Meadow

A collection of boulders sent during summer 2019. Climbs: Cocina (V8) (0:46) Royale With Cheese (V7) (1:46) A Cry For Deliverance (V10) (2:40) Rodeo Clown (V9) (3:36) Funk Shwey (V10) (5:50) The Phoenix (V11) (7:18) From Coals and Ashes (V12 FA) (8:18) Edited by: Cisco Juanes Music: Low End Theories - Headphone Activist Uproar - Lil Wayne Pacific Coast Highway (Jackson remix) - Kavinsky