Left

Flashed. I don't think I did the right line? The true line sit starts further down left, but I was told that I started on the crimps. If you know what this is, let me know.

20240414 - I started matched on the block, but left hand should start on the hold left of the block. It's marginally more difficult the way I started.

Maybe went off the line? It felt too high to just stick to only the corner and just rip for the lip (it wasn't good enough to throw for), but guidebook did not mention and holds or the flake on the left being off, so it should be legit.

Honestly pretty tough. Took me way to long to figure out the end sequence, eventually I just threw for the hold and it worked.

Traverses the Corn Hole boulder from the bottom of the left arête over to the center of the taller face and up. First move is the hardest part.

Follow me on Instagram: https://url-x.it/dvG5tLp For more info on the climb: https://sendage.com/climb/infected-mushroom-left-romper-room-niagara-glen-on-canada More info on Infected Mushroom variations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdLESWR5h-0 My website for climbing injury consultations and/or coaching: https://url-x.it/Q2r43jb Niagara Glen Bouldering

The third in a series of videos about 30+ V4 boulders at the Niagara Glen. This most recent set includes six new ones from a two-day stop-over on my 2022 trip out west. This time I focused on "short and sweet" boulders (no highballs, no traverses, no bad landings) to protect my ankles. The 12 cm tear is holding stable on my right ankle, as are the screws in my left ankle. Our Niagara Glen V4 series featuring 30+ problems: Pt 1 - Some Classics - https://youtu.be/_ASSDaFR_XU Pt 2 - Beyond the Classics - https://youtu.be/gGDlJ9LTEl4 Pt 3 - Short and Sweet - https://youtu.be/T4Jg8wVJ6mM Pt 4 - Nine More V4s - https://youtu.be/bcNXeoxPc5g Intro (0:00) The 6ix V4- (0:11) - kneebar beta The Plot V4 (1:11) - very short (but nice) The Impressionist V4- (1:55) - easy (and nice) Immaculate V4 (2:22) - classic (but can be frustrating) Diablo V4 (2:55) - a bunch of V4s on this boulder Acronym V4 (3:44) Notes: 1. Top outs are now allowed on most boulders. 2. (-) indicates we felt the grade was a soft and (+) indicates we felt it was stiff. 3. Excellent betas for harder problems are at @boulderingbreakdown https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2neaoj-kSprnmmAoWyJLQg #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #bouldering #climbing #v4boulders #v4niagara #v4glen #allthev4s

My last notable send of 2021! Weeks of shoulder strengthening made the huge span move much more comfortable!

Left crimp undercling beta gang rise up!

This is a **RE-RELEASE** and features an additional 8 boulder problems on sandstone. **DISCLAIMER** the paths to these boulders are still closed to my understanding and are potentially hazardous. Be smart and respectful. On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Bad Beta (7:05) The Pondering (7:40) (RICH) Boba Fett (8:01) + Maha (8:18) Signal the Riflemen (8:56) - - Novacane (9:14) (CAM) Stitches (10:10) Dung Beetle (10:55) Pica (11:38) Delicatessen (12:21) Blow Chicks Clothes off (12:56) - - Chuck Norris (13:22) Girl Scout (14:18) (RICH) - - The Flasher (14:52) K8 (15:22) Bounty Hunter (15:50) Bulgogi (16:27) Beast Man (16:44) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (17:16) + Pegasus (17:41) + Hellfire (18:11) The Baroness (18:32) - Pegleg (18:58) Glue Babies (19:22) Hightimes (19:52) - - Pothole (20:30) (CAM)

Jared Nelson makes this slopey crimp problem look like a walk in the park - but the park has a steep hill, and if you punt off the top of the hill you have to make sure you tuck and roll to not lose your teeth on the entrance... Needless to say, if you climb this problem, just don't fall.

On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I climbed every boulder featured in this film (plus 8 others that were not featured). I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Dung Beetle (7:05) Pica (7:48) Delicatessen (8:31) Blow Chicks Clothes off (9:05) - - Chuck Norris (9:32) Girl Scout (10:28) (RICH) - - The Flasher (11:01) K8 (11:33) Bounty Hunter (11:59) Beast Man (12:37) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (13:08) + Pegasus (13:33) + Hellfire (14:04) The Baroness (14:29) - Pegleg (14:55) Glue Babies (15:20) Hightimes (15:50) - - Pothole (16:32) (CAM)

Really proud of this climb as it has eluded me for many months due to risk aversion with the final huge move out left - turns out I just needed to be I’m more confident in my right hand crimp pinching abilities!

Classic boulder with a few different beta options for the crux move. The crux move is the sequence after hitting the left hand crimp.

Quick edit of the Floryshe Left v6 boulder problem at the Niagara Glen. Shot via GoPro Hero 6 using Protune & edited with DaVinci Resolve. Learned how to add text to the video in an interesting way to use as a title.

Left hand variation of "The doors of perception (V6)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Hard for the grade, I found the 2nd move to be the hardest until I found the beta tweaks that worked for me. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Good little climb. First move feels hard until you commit and get the heel nice and high on the left hold. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 3/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.