Left
V0⭐
Start on the blank face left of the flake. Using edges, crank straight up. TO.
Videos
| Title | Description | Channel | Published at |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Cry for Deliverance V10 – Niagara Glen | Dude this gave me so much trouble. It felt good to try this again recently and it felt like the left start hand doubled in size. Probably due to me getting stronger and having better technique. | ||
| Floating Seagulls (V4) - Wonderland Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 21, 2026
The boulder is imposing but this line is too good to pass on if you have the pads to protect it! The landing is very rocky - for reference we used 2 big pads and 2 regular sized pads. Climbs really well - lots of beta options through the beginning with many usable pockets. Make sure you have your feet set up well for the big cross move. Keep your head for the top out as not all the holds on the lip are as juggy as they look. What I initially grabbed on the right side had me trying harder than I expected but the left was more forgiving. | ||
| Gateway (V3) - Bizarro World Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 19, 2026
A bit softer than I was expecting. The move to the lip was pretty easy with good foot placement. The hardest part for me was deciding how to hold the starting block and how to position my feet. Originally I was going to move left hand first but I settled on right hand so that the left could stay pulling on the jug start for longer. | ||
| Rungs (V1) - Bizarro World Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 19, 2026
First send at the Glen! This is a must-do for the grade - great features and movement with so many beta possibilities. I based my beta around wanting to use the great juggy sidepull out right that I don't see a lot of people using. This made it easier to grab the good part of the next crimp with my left hand, making the "big" move easier too. A nice toe hook helps to avoid some of the polished footholds! | ||
| Bagging Loose Tea V8 – Niagara Glen | Dude I got a monster blood split on my left middle. | ||
| The Gunt V10 – Niagara Glen | Dude, hell yeah. I've been suffering from double digit send withdrawal.
That night I woke up at 5, couldn't go back to sleep, so I rolled out of bed having slept 4 hours. The previous day I slept 6 hours, interrupted after like an hour or 2, so pretty bad. I pulled this out of my ass.
The two important microbeta was to hit the sloper crimp slightly more right than I think (don't just go all the way left to the crack), make sure your pinky is on.
Then the holy grail was me switching from a right toe down with open hip to a twisting drop knee to get the sidepull. I was always better at this twisting, but assuming this move forced the open hips. I saw it done in person with the twist knee, and the moment I tried it, I knew I had it in the bag. It makes the top so much easier for me. | ||
| Monkey Fist V2 (maybe) - Niagara Glen | Flashed. I don't think I did the right line? The true line sit starts further down left, but I was told that I started on the crimps. If you know what this is, let me know. | ||
| Niagara Glen - Foot Fetish - V3 | 20240414 - I started matched on the block, but left hand should start on the hold left of the block. It's marginally more difficult the way I started. | ||
| Mirin V2 - Niagara Glen | Maybe went off the line? It felt too high to just stick to only the corner and just rip for the lip (it wasn't good enough to throw for), but guidebook did not mention and holds or the flake on the left being off, so it should be legit. | ||
| Infected Mushroom Left V7 - Niagara Glen | Honestly pretty tough. Took me way to long to figure out the end sequence, eventually I just threw for the hold and it worked. | ||
| Gateway V3 // Niagara Glen | // 4 March 2024
Honestly I’m not really sure if this is actually Gateway as the line in the Glen Guidebook has it going a little further left, but I essentially topped out at the same place, it just feels a bit easier than what’s in the book. | ||
| Snake Eyes, Niagara Glen | All the toe hooks on mini limestone spikes made this possible. I also chose to stay straight up the line and avoid the choss to the very left. Sick glen classic. | ||
| The Complete Guide - V7 - (54!) Niagara Glen Bouldering | Asian Friends - 0:04
Back To His Future - 0:44
Balrog Battle - 1:06 - V7/8?
Beef Baron* - 1:48 - very likely broke and has not been done since. **EDIT - done by Leo and Jacquie in 2025. Was more up the left side of the face than I had thought.
Black Dragon - 2:03
Blazed - 2:39
Classified - 3:35
Contact SDS - 4:09
Diamond In The Rough - 4:53
Doughnut Munching Canadians - 6:50
Energy Crisis - 7:42
English Doodoo - 8:56
Floor Is Lava - 9:47 - Proposed V7
Full Moon Rising - 10:18
Girls Of Cheektowaga - 11:23
Gulag - 11:51
Happy Thoughts Dyno Variation - 12:21- Contrived
(The) Honeymoon - 12:38
(The) Hunter - 32:16
Infected Mushroom Left - 13:09
Ivy League - 13:57
Kamikaze - 14:23 - Proposed V7
Krymptonite - 14:59
K9 Track Suit Low - 15:24 - (arête eliminate)
Life O’Reilly SDS - 16:23
Low Rider - 16:57
Mangler* - 18:43 - very likely broke and has not been done since
Mighty Mitges - 18:58 - V7/8
Mostly Harmless - 19:27
Nogoko - 20:21 - V6/7
Nothing Static - 21:03
No U-turn SDS - 21:34
Paste Low - 22:08
Peace and Love - 22:31 - V6/7?
Pirates Of The Caribbean - 22:57
Previous Tapped - 23:52 - V6 (seems super sandbagged) / 7?
Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS - 24:31
Repet - 25:17 - V6/7 - contrived
Rim-Job Arête - 25:57 - ***access affected by water level
Royale With Cheese - 26:35
Rule of Thumb - 27:27
Shackled Babies - 28:02
Shadow Boxing - 29:14
Stickler - 29:54 - V6/maybe7?
Stoking The Fire - 30:44
Supercell - 31:32
The Honeymoon - 12:38
The Hunter - 32:16
Total Compression - 32:51 - *Typically exits around the right side
Trouble And Strife - 33:43
Undercover - 34:12 - Proposed V7
Under Direct Rule - 34:52
Vigilante Justice - 35:24 - V6/7
What Hands Can Grasp - 35:52 - V6/7
White Dragon - 36:43 - V7/maybe8+?
Young Offender - 37:49 - Contrived start?
Niagara Glen Bouldering V7
#climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen | ||
| Zozobra V9/10 Niagara Glen Bouldering | "Zozobra" V9/V10 at the Niagara Glen. Ever since I first stepped foot in the Glen 5 years ago, this climb has been in the back of my head as a life-lister. At the time, I was climbing V6/V7, and I figured I would come back when I felt like I could flash it.
I didnt flash it today, but I did do it 4th go. My first go I missed the deep pocket on the first move, and my next two goes I chickened out on the left hand bump move. My fourth go I sent, doing the drop knee move the first time I got there.
The movement, holds, and line are spectacular to say the least. 4 stars for sure. The starting holds did break off back in Nov of 2020. I never touched the climb before today, so I can't speak to if it's harder or easier than before. I found the difficult moves to be the first move, and the left hand bump move (third). Both of which were affected by the hold break. Honestly, I thought the drop knee move and top out were pretty chill.
Thanks @joeysuster21 for the day trip car company, pads, spots, and stoke.
#bouldering #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #niagaraglennaturereserve | ||
| The GLEN Over TEN - V11 Niagara Glen Bouldering | Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock.
Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience!
Niagara Glen Bouldering
The Phoenix | V11 (1:26)
Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16)
Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range
Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26)
Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16)
The Heat | V11 (9:48)
As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right??
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage
For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
Check out my website for:
- Climbing Injury Consultations
- Climbing Strength Assessments
- Coaching and Programming
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Infected Mushroom Left v7/7a+ Niagara Glen Bouldering | |||
| Infected Mushroom Left - V7 , Niagara Glen Bouldering | Follow me on Instagram: https://url-x.it/dvG5tLp
For more info on the climb: https://sendage.com/climb/infected-mushroom-left-romper-room-niagara-glen-on-canada
More info on Infected Mushroom variations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdLESWR5h-0
My website for climbing injury consultations and/or coaching: https://url-x.it/Q2r43jb
Niagara Glen Bouldering | ||
| V4 Bouldering - Niagara 3 - Short and Sweet | The third in a series of videos about 30+ V4 boulders at the Niagara Glen. This most recent set includes six new ones from a two-day stop-over on my 2022 trip out west. This time I focused on "short and sweet" boulders (no highballs, no traverses, no bad landings) to protect my ankles. The 12 cm tear is holding stable on my right ankle, as are the screws in my left ankle.
Our Niagara Glen V4 series featuring 30+ problems:
Pt 1 - Some Classics - https://youtu.be/_ASSDaFR_XU
Pt 2 - Beyond the Classics - https://youtu.be/gGDlJ9LTEl4
Pt 3 - Short and Sweet - https://youtu.be/T4Jg8wVJ6mM
Pt 4 - Nine More V4s - https://youtu.be/bcNXeoxPc5g
Intro (0:00)
The 6ix V4- (0:11) - kneebar beta
The Plot V4 (1:11) - very short (but nice)
The Impressionist V4- (1:55) - easy (and nice)
Immaculate V4 (2:22) - classic (but can be frustrating)
Diablo V4 (2:55) - a bunch of V4s on this boulder
Acronym V4 (3:44)
Notes:
1. Top outs are now allowed on most boulders.
2. (-) indicates we felt the grade was a soft and (+) indicates we felt it was stiff.
3. Excellent betas for harder problems are at @boulderingbreakdown https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2neaoj-kSprnmmAoWyJLQg
#niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #bouldering #climbing #v4boulders #v4niagara #v4glen #allthev4s | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021 | Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021.
0:00 Intro
0:03 Wisecrack V0
0:38 Dustinator V2
1:23 Roach Motel V3
2:10 Razor’s Edge V3
2:52 If God Was A Climber V4
4:06 Psilocybin Roof (NTO) V3
4:57 On Thirst Foughts V4
5:55 No U Turn Sit (Gaston Variation) V4
6:44 Yes Dear (Dyno) V4/5
7:20 Hellfire V5
8:15 Balance V5
9:04 Floryshe Left/Love of My Life Direct V6
9:34 Rock Lee V6 (2nd Asc. By Aidan) FA’d by James A
9:57 Carpet Munching Diablos V7
10:34 Closed Eye Visuals V9
11:09 A Cry For Deliverance V10
12:00 Seppuku V10
13:43 The Phoenix V11
Grades:
Grades are the opinion of the climber, so there might be some variance compared to guidebooks/other websites etc.
Psilocybin Roof (NTO):
The original Psilocybin Roof line had a chossy topout with a sketchy landing so I dropped off at the massive jug which seemed like a good natural finish point.
No U Turn SDS (Gaston Variation):
I used a slightly higher left hand Gaston for the No U Turn SDS line. It’s much easier than the lower left crimp and possibly morpho but climbs super well. Interested to see if anyone has trouble reaching the left hand from the ground.
Rock Lee:
I spent a few sessions over 2 years looking at this thing and never fully committed to the dyno. Having a psyched crew of crushers lead to James A getting the FA on April 9th 2020 followed by Aidan A and finally myself. Others have managed to static the move with a toe hook making the move easier.
Yes Dear (Dyno):
There’s not too many dynos in the glen that are clean, committing, and have good landings. This is definitely a nice/fun challenge if you’re in the area and like to jump. | ||
| INFECTED MUSHROOM LEFT V7 | Niagara Glen | My last notable send of 2021! Weeks of shoulder strengthening made the huge span move much more comfortable! | ||
| Some of the Best Rocks to Fall Off of - Niagara Glen day 2 | This video was from out trip to the Niagara Glen back in October. The Niagara Glen is definitely one of the best spots to climb in Canada. Its always an awesome weekend when we make the trip out to the Glen
Our Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dyno.saurs/
Dynosaurs Chalk Bags: https://kangaclimbing.com/products/kanga-pouch-dynosaurs?_pos=1&_sid=94df47fdd&_ss=r
Dynosaurs Boulder Buckets: https://kangaclimbing.com/products/copy-of-eco-conscious-bouldering-bucket-call-of-the-mountains?_pos=2&_sid=94df47fdd&_ss=r
Dynosaurs Merch: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeBbXB9-nePpWSzORhqAxQ2WDRV_k0zjkuRKJu7M_kul6jwmg/viewform
In this Video:
00:00 - Intro
00:36 - Gillronamoe
01:26 - Floryshe Left - V6(7a)
02:42 - Hector's Toe Hook V5(6c)
04:24 - Semblance - V5(6c)
07:07 - Higher Ground - V4(6b)
09:58 - Mama Mia - V4(6b)
Music:
Music by Chinsaku - Cruisin' - https://thmatc.co/?l=2F260BBC
Local Forecast - Slower by Kevin MacLeod
Link: https://incompetech.filmmusic.io/song/3988-local-forecast---slower
License: https://filmmusic.io/standard-license
#Bouldering #Rockclimbing #NiagaraGlen #Climbing | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | PART 12 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Following a finger injury from fall 2020 the winter consistent of rehabbing on a home hang board, which blended into strength training as the injury healed. I came out to the glen spring of 2021 with probably the strongest fingers I’ve ever had, but with very little time actually climbing (lockdowns). No better way to regain time on the rock than sampling some moderate blocks put up recently! Give them a try and let me know how you like them :D
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Concentration Breathing | V6 (0:10) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida
Peace and Love | V6/7? (0:40) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger
Slipper | V5+ (1:07) - FLASH / FA: Brian Fernandes
Semblance | V5- (1:52) - ONSIGHT
English Doodoo | V6/7 (2:44) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida
Street Food | V4- (3:35)
Oral B | V5 (4:16) - POST MOST RECENT BREAK
Pirates of the Caribbean | V7 (5:02) - CONTRIVED (Compress up the face rather than follow up left arête)
Trillibyte | V6- (5:59)
Framonda | V2/3 (6:49) - ONSIGHT
Balrog Battle | V7/8? (7:26) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger
Hunt of the Nazgûl - FA | V6/7? (8:09)
TC | V5 (8:39) - ONSIGHT
Balance | V4+ (9:19)
Deceit and Betrayal | V5 (9:47)
English Voodoo | V9 (10:34)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
"?" = Idk, newer climbs with consolidating grades - lmk what you think !
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| NOGOKO V7 | Niagara Glen | Left crimp undercling beta gang rise up! | ||
| V5 DAY! Niagara Glen (RE-RELEASE) | This is a **RE-RELEASE** and features an additional 8 boulder problems on sandstone. **DISCLAIMER** the paths to these boulders are still closed to my understanding and are potentially hazardous. Be smart and respectful.
On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere.
Anklet (0:25)
Jaws (0:44)
Great Wall of China (1:07)
Semblance (1:47) (SAM)
Hydraulic (2:28)
The Stand (3:00)
Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) +
Achille's Heel (4:29) +
Bottle Rocket (5:00) -
Husbands and Lies (5:23)
Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - -
Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - -
Bad Beta (7:05)
The Pondering (7:40) (RICH)
Boba Fett (8:01) +
Maha (8:18)
Signal the Riflemen (8:56) - -
Novacane (9:14) (CAM)
Stitches (10:10)
Dung Beetle (10:55)
Pica (11:38)
Delicatessen (12:21)
Blow Chicks Clothes off (12:56) - -
Chuck Norris (13:22)
Girl Scout (14:18) (RICH) - -
The Flasher (14:52)
K8 (15:22)
Bounty Hunter (15:50)
Bulgogi (16:27)
Beast Man (16:44) -
Real Kung Fu Massacre (17:16) +
Pegasus (17:41) +
Hellfire (18:11)
The Baroness (18:32) -
Pegleg (18:58)
Glue Babies (19:22)
Hightimes (19:52) - -
Pothole (20:30) (CAM) | ||
| Infected Mushroom Left V7 @ Niagara Glen | Jared Nelson makes this slopey crimp problem look like a walk in the park - but the park has a steep hill, and if you punt off the top of the hill you have to make sure you tuck and roll to not lose your teeth on the entrance... Needless to say, if you climb this problem, just don't fall. | ||
| Rule of thumb (V8/7b): Niagara Glen - Maria and Ratul | Rule of thumb (V8/7b)
Beginning of this year Maria & Ratul climbed a hidden gem on a boulder problem located in Niagara Glen, Old country sector that was tucked away next to the main trail
The problem starts on two small crimps that require a badass crossover move before extending out to the featured 'rule of thumb' hold. Then you establish your feet to launch for the top roof edge with your left hand and pull up to top out the sketchy slab climb (Spooky) | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering 2018-2020 | Shout out to all the peeps who helped film and spot for the vids, you're the real goats.
Harry, Wes, Will, James, Patrick, Kevin, Tej, Russel, Jeff and everyone else who we met while in the glen.
0:00 Intro
0:07 Running Man V2
1:17 Eye Sickle V2
2:08 Spiderman V3
3:27 Second Thoughts (Aiden) V3
4:26 Megaman V3 (Aiden)
5:16 Mamma Mia V4
6:14 Higher Ground V4
6:56 Love of My Life V4
7:23 Darlene V4
7:44 The Plot V4 (Aiden)
8:11 Brave New World V5
8:58 The Stand V5
9:50 Here I Go Again V5
11:15 Anklet V5
11:40 Pica V5
12:30 Black Magic V6
13:08 Ripple Direct V6
14:39 My Upside Down Milkshake V6
15:22 Windy City V6
16:04 Shocking Revelations V6
17:20 Thunder and Lightning V6
17:52 Trilobite V6
18:40 Life O'Riley Stand V6
19:19 Contact Stand V6
20:16 Super Sharp Shooter V6
20:59 Sharkey Problem V6
21:40 Eyes Wide Open V6 (Aiden)
22:26 Sibishii V6/7
23:00 Life O'Riley Sit V7
23:42 Contact Sit (First Contact) V7
24:36 Infected Mushroom Left V7 (Matt)
25:50 Black Dragon V7 (Matt)
26:17 Nogoko V7 (Matt)
27:12 Floryshe V8 (Aiden)
27:39 Rule of Thumb V8 (Aiden)
28:26 Cocina V8 (Aiden)
29:04 Personal Vendetta V8 (Matt)
30:28 Peewee V8 (Matt)
30:58 Orient Express V8
31:46 Chain Reaction V9 (Aiden)
32:42 Rigormortis V9 (Matt)
Socials:
Jeremy @jeremybaziw https://www.instagram.com/jeremybaziw/?hl=en
Aiden @yellowholdclimber https://www.instagram.com/yellowholdclimber/?hl=en
Matt @_matthewconlin https://www.instagram.com/_matthewconlin/?hl=en
Crew Instagram @monkeymodeclimbing https://www.instagram.com/monkeymodeclimbing/?hl=en
#niagaraglen #bouldering | ||
| Niagara Glen - Central: Comfy V0 | Comfy little climb with surprisingly good moves and holds while not being chossy.
The climb is located to the very left and below the lip of the slab where tales of power finishes, directly opposite to Danzig.
Start on the opposing comfy holds and climb up to establish on the face. | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | Part 10 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Woah... 10 of these now! Lots of rare footage in this one ;)
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Black Magic (CONTRIVED) | V6 (0:10)
Pot Mouth | V5/6 (0:50)
Dualism | V9 (1:41)
Path Illogical | V4 (2:16)
Amores Perros (Left Arête ELIMINATED) | V6 (2:58)
The Stand Direct | V6 (3:40)
AlphaOmegaMan SDS | V6 (4:11)
Qi | V6 (5:02)
Previously Tapped | V6+ (6:29)
Hidden In Plain Sight - FA (Currently CLOSED) | V5 (7:08)
The Shining | V6 (8:05)
Kamikaze - FA | Proposed* V7+ (8:52)
Crackhead | V6- (9:28)
Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience.
"-" = soft / "+" = hard
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Balrog Battle (v7, FA) Niagara Glen | On the same boulder as Framonda (v3) in the new guidebook. Right across from the Misfits boulder (Mighty Midges etc.) atop the tunnel. Start matched on low rail with a left heel hook, use a two finger pocket to get to a far RH undercling. Topout straight and to the left avoiding the Cedar | ||
| Stranded (V2) - Niagara Glen | This is a climb we made up on our own on our very first trip to the Niagara Glen. It is between a V3 and a V1 climbs on each side of it. It involves lifting off the sit start on a sharper left hand, getting an inside knee and rotating your body weight around your knee and grabbing the side pull ledge.
This is climbed by Ian W. | ||
| Stiletto (v10, FA) Niagara Glen | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left. | ||
| Infected Mushroom (left) v7 Niagara Glen | |||
| Funk-Schwey (v10) Niagara glen (post breakage) | A crucial crux hold broke on this climb last summer but luckily a sidepull was left in its place and I was able to repeat it.
Music: Family Shop // Schwey | ||
| Funk-Schwey (v10, post-breakage, gopro angle) Niagara Glen | Uncut footage of Niagara Glen bouldering. Last summer a large block ripped off the crux section at the arrete. Luckily it left a decent side-pull that could also later be used as foot hold to top it out. | ||
| Pirates of the Caribbean (V7) Niagara Glen | In the Neighborhood Left just behind Oral B to the right. | ||
| Slipper (v5) Niagara Glen | Same start as Stiletto (v10), but hands reversed. On the same boulder as Cocina/ A Cry for Deliverance, starts left of them | ||
| V100 CHALLENGE - NIAGARA GLEN | Short Film | This short film follows Ontario climber Jeremy Penman on his birthday challenge: complete 100 V-points in a day at Niagara Glen! But with the COVID-19 pandemic at the start of 2020, climbing access was prohibited and suddenly the backyard playground that Jeremy took for granted in years past had a whole new meaning for him.
The Niagara Glen (affectionately known as "The Glen") is the only major bouldering venue in Southern Ontario and is located near the Canadian-US border. Climbers like Sonnie Trotter have left their mark at The Glen with test-piece problems established nearly two decades ago while more recently climbing phenom Alex Megos gifted The Glen with two new V12 problems. Local climbers like Jany Mitges had fought to keep access open at The Glen back in 2008 while being part of the then-known Ontario Access Coalition. Today, Kacy Wilson spearheads the fight and maintains an excellent relationship between the Ontario Alliance of Climbers and the Niagara Parks Commission. The Glen is a destination frequent by all user groups and it remains important that climbers act as stewards towards the area by practicing Leave No Trace and display good crag etiquette.
We hope you enjoy this climbing film with it's genuine try-hard-challenge while also highlighting access issues and history of the Niagara Glen. | ||
| V5 DAY at the Niagara GLEN | On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I climbed every boulder featured in this film (plus 8 others that were not featured). I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere.
Anklet (0:25)
Jaws (0:44)
Great Wall of China (1:07)
Semblance (1:47) (SAM)
Hydraulic (2:28)
The Stand (3:00)
Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) +
Achille's Heel (4:29) +
Bottle Rocket (5:00) -
Husbands and Lies (5:23)
Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - -
Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - -
Dung Beetle (7:05)
Pica (7:48)
Delicatessen (8:31)
Blow Chicks Clothes off (9:05) - -
Chuck Norris (9:32)
Girl Scout (10:28) (RICH) - -
The Flasher (11:01)
K8 (11:33)
Bounty Hunter (11:59)
Beast Man (12:37) -
Real Kung Fu Massacre (13:08) +
Pegasus (13:33) +
Hellfire (14:04)
The Baroness (14:29) -
Pegleg (14:55)
Glue Babies (15:20)
Hightimes (15:50) - -
Pothole (16:32) (CAM) | ||
| FLORYSHE LEFT V6 | Niagara Glen | Really proud of this climb as it has eluded me for many months due to risk aversion with the final huge move out left - turns out I just needed to be I’m more confident in my right hand crimp pinching abilities! | ||
| Megaman (V4) - Niagara Glen | Classic boulder with a few different beta options for the crux move. The crux move is the sequence after hitting the left hand crimp. | ||
| Niagara Glen - Floryshe Left v6 / Edit #9 | Quick edit of the Floryshe Left v6 boulder problem at the Niagara Glen.
Shot via GoPro Hero 6 using Protune & edited with DaVinci Resolve.
Learned how to add text to the video in an interesting way to use as a title. | ||
| Brave New World (V5) - Niagara Glen | Left hand variation of "The doors of perception (V6)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Hard for the grade, I found the 2nd move to be the hardest until I found the beta tweaks that worked for me.
Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada
Area: Land of Oz
Date: August 2020
Personal Quality Rating: 5/5
My height: 6ft
My ape index: ~ +1
Sponsors:
- My parents | ||
| Bounty Hunter (V5) - Niagara Glen | Good little climb. First move feels hard until you commit and get the heel nice and high on the left hold.
Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada
Area: Land of Oz
Date: August 2020
Personal Quality Rating: 3/5
My height: 6ft
My ape index: ~ +1
Sponsors:
- My parents | ||
| The Warm-up Proj! | The Minimalist V6 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Over the past few years I have looked at this boulder every time I was close by and could never understand how to even start... Finally, I committed to giving a real effort to figure this thing out.
I offer you: The Minimalist V6 - a classic glen sandbag? Let me know what you guys think
FA: Andy Salo
Start on the clean blank face of this boulder sitting. Pull off the ground using a left hand undercling and bad right sidepull. Fire to the mail slot and topout on big jugs. Make sure you are really sitting to start, otherwise its easier :)
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Closed Eye Visuals V10 Niagara Glen Bouldering | My first v10! I grabbed the crux right hand hold with my front 2 fingers and thumb, and had to readjust to add my ring finger on before I could move off the left hand. #V10 #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #niagraglen | ||
| THE GLEN SUB TEN | Part 2 | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Some throwback footy from 2016! Niagara Glen Nature Reserve Bouldering
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
LIFE O'RIELLY V6 (0:11)
SDS LIFE O'RIELLY V7 (0:52)
DECLARATION OF FAITH V8 (1:25)
NATURAL GAS V4 (2:04)
STILL AT LARGE V6 (2:24) a.k.a. ' THE ZODIAC '
NOVACANE V5 (3:04)
PRESSED 4 TIME V4 (4:09)
BOB'S BALANCING BALLS V8 (4:45)
LOVE OF MY LIFE V4 (6:04)
PEEWEE V8 (7:14)
TROUBLE AND STRIFE V7- (7:43)
BILINGUAL V8- (8:11)
BRAVE NEW WORLD (LEFT) V5 (8:48)
ASIAN FRIENDS V7 (9:16)
CHAIN REACTION V8/V9 (10:05)
ROYALE WITH CHEESE V7 (11:04)
BLACK DRAGON V7 (12:08)
SHARP SHOOTER V8 (12:50)
GULAG (AKA FART) V7 (13:36)
GIRLS OF CHEEKTOWAGA V7 (14:06)
BIG MAC DEAL WIS BEER V8 (14:33)
http://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
MUSIC - PANTyRAiD
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Orient Express V8 BREAKDOWN | Niagara Glen Bouldering | Let me know how you guys like the video!
SHOW ME THE SEND: 5:00
Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop
Some more beta Ideas below
"Red line" variation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yun5HYRS-EM
First move left hand up (no heel): https://vimeo.com/167572484
First move right hand up: https://vimeo.com/152347813
Female: https://vimeo.com/166358467
Short: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0RTXPAMlmw
Rigomortis Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9Kfn_wRYII
#niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Workin' With the Wrist [V3] - Niagara Glen Bouldering | This climb is just to the left of the boulder that Frozen French Fries [V2] is on, facing the exact same way, in Old Country (Lower) of the Niagara Glen, Ontario.
It is un-named in the Topout.org guide, so I named it “Workin’ with the Wrist” due to the strong dyno into a crimp, which puts a lot of pressure on the wrist. If it's an actual route and someone has the name, please let me know! Climbed on June 4, 2016.
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Music credit to:
Reev Music [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBiKeMZd8Xs-qSJoGFXGt6A] | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering - Flesh Prince V7 | Flesh Prince V7 is found on the right side of the Band Saw boulder upon entering Central from the descending stairs. Start under the bulge with two hands on the undercling, climb up using side pulls and bomb left to the crimp to top out using jugs. | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering Beta Vol.2 | Bonfire Rodeo
Behind Imposso Right
Behind Imposso Left
Glue Babies
Real Kung-Fu Massacre
Stitches |