Balance

Niagara Glen, ON, Canada.

Dude it's actually the worst holds ever.

20250614

After several short trips to Niagara, we realized that Cedar had sent boulders at every grade from V1 to V8. Here are her favorites - one per grade. (0:00) Intro (0:30) V8 - One Inch Punch (2023) (3:11) V7 - Nogoko (2023) (4:11) V6 - Threesome (2021) (5:28) V5 - Pica (2023) (6:19) V4 - Balance (2023) (6:55) V3 - Kneebar (2020) (7:49) V2 - Electric French Fry* (2021) (8:31) V1 - Musetta's Waltz (2023) * This video is actually from her send of the "sit" version of this problem (V6). #climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering

The fourth in our series of videos about 30+ V4 boulders at the Niagara Glen. This most recent set includes nine new ones from Easter weekend 2023. Cedar was working (and sending) her V7 and V8 projects - but we managed to sneak these V4s in around the corners. Our Niagara Glen V4 series featuring 30+ problems: Pt 1 - Some Classics - https://youtu.be/_ASSDaFR_XU Pt 2 - Beyond the Classics - https://youtu.be/gGDlJ9LTEl4 Pt 3 - Short and Sweet - https://youtu.be/T4Jg8wVJ6mM Pt 4 - Nine More V4s - https://youtu.be/bcNXeoxPc5g Balance V4+ (0:00) - a wicked slab problem Dogtooth Spar V4 (0:35) - a personal favorite Parallelogram V4 (1:28) - big/weak beta, then small/strong beta Thoughts and Prayers V4 (2:24) - big moves On Thirst Fought V4- (3:18) - easy for the grade Poke* V4- (4:02) - karate kick beta (not in book, just downhill from Megaman) *I later saw on Sendage that the arete is out - so this is not exactly Poke Spectacles V4+ (4:36) - suboptimal beta conquered by sheer strength The Magic Bullet V4 (5:56) - short and sharp Cream Cheese V4- (7:17) - very height dependent (but fun!) Outro (7:56) Notes: 1. Top outs are now allowed on most boulders. 2. (-) indicates we felt the grade was a soft and (+) indicates we felt it was stiff. 3. Excellent betas for harder problems are at @boulderingbreakdown https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2neaoj-kSprnmmAoWyJLQg #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #bouldering #climbing #v4boulders #v4niagara #v4glen #allthev4s

Niagara Glen Bouldering 2021. 0:00 Intro 0:03 Wisecrack V0 0:38 Dustinator V2 1:23 Roach Motel V3 2:10 Razor’s Edge V3 2:52 If God Was A Climber V4 4:06 Psilocybin Roof (NTO) V3 4:57 On Thirst Foughts V4 5:55 No U Turn Sit (Gaston Variation) V4 6:44 Yes Dear (Dyno) V4/5 7:20 Hellfire V5 8:15 Balance V5 9:04 Floryshe Left/Love of My Life Direct V6 9:34 Rock Lee V6 (2nd Asc. By Aidan) FA’d by James A 9:57 Carpet Munching Diablos V7 10:34 Closed Eye Visuals V9 11:09 A Cry For Deliverance V10 12:00 Seppuku V10 13:43 The Phoenix V11 Grades: Grades are the opinion of the climber, so there might be some variance compared to guidebooks/other websites etc. Psilocybin Roof (NTO): The original Psilocybin Roof line had a chossy topout with a sketchy landing so I dropped off at the massive jug which seemed like a good natural finish point. No U Turn SDS (Gaston Variation): I used a slightly higher left hand Gaston for the No U Turn SDS line. It’s much easier than the lower left crimp and possibly morpho but climbs super well. Interested to see if anyone has trouble reaching the left hand from the ground. Rock Lee: I spent a few sessions over 2 years looking at this thing and never fully committed to the dyno. Having a psyched crew of crushers lead to James A getting the FA on April 9th 2020 followed by Aidan A and finally myself. Others have managed to static the move with a toe hook making the move easier. Yes Dear (Dyno): There’s not too many dynos in the glen that are clean, committing, and have good landings. This is definitely a nice/fun challenge if you’re in the area and like to jump.

Following a finger injury from fall 2020 the winter consistent of rehabbing on a home hang board, which blended into strength training as the injury healed. I came out to the glen spring of 2021 with probably the strongest fingers I’ve ever had, but with very little time actually climbing (lockdowns). No better way to regain time on the rock than sampling some moderate blocks put up recently! Give them a try and let me know how you like them :D Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop Concentration Breathing | V6 (0:10) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida Peace and Love | V6/7? (0:40) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger Slipper | V5+ (1:07) - FLASH / FA: Brian Fernandes Semblance | V5- (1:52) - ONSIGHT English Doodoo | V6/7 (2:44) - 3rd Asc. / FA: Lucas Uchida Street Food | V4- (3:35) Oral B | V5 (4:16) - POST MOST RECENT BREAK Pirates of the Caribbean | V7 (5:02) - CONTRIVED (Compress up the face rather than follow up left arête) Trillibyte | V6- (5:59) Framonda | V2/3 (6:49) - ONSIGHT Balrog Battle | V7/8? (7:26) - 2nd Asc. / FA: Jake Tiger Hunt of the Nazgûl - FA | V6/7? (8:09) TC | V5 (8:39) - ONSIGHT Balance | V4+ (9:19) Deceit and Betrayal | V5 (9:47) English Voodoo | V9 (10:34) Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience. "-" = soft / "+" = hard "?" = Idk, newer climbs with consolidating grades - lmk what you think ! For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing