The Nooks
Close to Elliot Lake, this bouldering crag was developed by Brendan Baars and features boulders from V0 through V13.
Guidebooks
Admin notes
This guide is very incomplete. Updates will come in as open sources of information are found.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zombie | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start under the left side of the severe overhang on the far left side of the boulder. Start with both hands on a jug and climb the huge sloper feature, traversing right, to topout in the crack feature. |
| Big Toe | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the underside of the overhanging crack pretty far down. Climb the overhang using many underclings and sidepulls. A crux right before the slab will make this fun. The fun stops when your on the slab. Be careful and watch your step. It's a highball people. |
| Burn and Rage | V7 | - | Double toe-hooks? 360 spins? Feet first climb? This thing has all of the funky moves you may hate or love. Either way, an amazing climb on blocky slopers with excellent rock quality.
FA: Brendan Baars |
| Double Bubble | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start below the double bubble on crimps. Make some techy moves to enter the crack. Continue up the crack feature through interesting moves and hand jams to top out above. |
| Hidden Treasure SDS | V7 | - | Sit start way down and right ton two separate holds. Climb the intro to 'Gimme that Booty' and exit on hidden treasure up the middle of the face. |
| Saving Grace | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | A sick Nooks addition in The Wylds at a new zone. Start on a slanting jug near the ground and climbing into an undercling position. Then Launch for massive sloper. And do a heinously cool topout onto incredibly slopey terrain. Make note, the first ascentionist did not top the cliff. Choosing to jump down instead. So a “top and drop problem. But not really.” |
| State of the Art | V7 | - | Climbs the crimp rail in the middle of the large square face. Utilize a toe-hook and a piano match to get through this vicious crimp crux.
FA: Brendan Baars |
| Strikezone | V7 | - | Far left side of the boulder near the “cave entrance.” Sit start on two small jugs. Make your way up and left with the first 4-5 moves being the crux of the problem revolving around a thrutchy throw to a good crimp halfway up. Bust right after the crux and keep it together as you make moves with the tree at your back. Top of the boulder is a jug.
FA: Steve Taylor |
| Vintage | V7 | - | TBD |
| Blind Attack SDS | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Sit/lay down start underneath a squeeze block. Left hand is a hidden jug wayyy under and left. Reach right hand out onto right arete. Stick a toe hook by the left hand and start squeezing. |
| Friendship | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start on a perfect flat jug and a flat crimp right next to it. Raise up and flip to an undercling and move through the difficult slopers and gain the dihedral. Top out on the small ledge. A hand jam well above your head may come in handy. |
| Side Hustle Low | V8 | - | Start on the obvious crescent shaped undercling. Establish your feet and thrutch to the better holds up and left. finish on the arête using hands and feet around the corner. |
| Major League Swing | V8+ | - | Start on a good edge to the right side of the arête and make a big move to a sloping dish around the arête. Utilize a heel hook and small crimps to bust to the lip. Press it out.
FA: Brendan Baars |
| American Badass | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start under the roof a sloping/flat rail. Move left and upwards to tackle perfectly sculped sloping holds. Tackle the easy but tall finish. |
| Color of Time | V9 | - | A power endurance test piece. Sit start with your hands crossed. Heel hook near your hand and power up right to a sloping ledge. Continue right hand to a decent sloper ledge. Sink a heel on the upper start hold and make a big move to a ledge side pull with an indent. Take a breath and prepare for the crux. Find a way to cross up and over to the next ledge which faces the wrong direction, then adjust your feet holding maximum tension. Bust to the lip saving strength for a topout that could spit you off.
FA: Brendan Baars |