Midnight Express

June 19, 2026 Very unique problem, a new favorite of mine for the grade! How many moves can be done off of a single heel hook?! The moves coming out of the roof didn't take as much out of me as I thought but I misfired a few times on the last bump with the right hand as it's a bit blind. There's a ton of beta options for making it up the face with a variety of good interesting holds. At first I wanted to go more straight on and use the holds out right but getting tension with my right toe to make that happen seemed too difficult as there's not great footholds coming out of the lip. So I used the right heel hook beta which is a bit burly but satisfying! Found plenty of small intermediates to close the distance on the bigger moves as well. The starting hold was so moist when I arrived - I had to spent a lot of time brushing and drying it off. The top out was also a bit grimey - there's plenty to use but I recommend scoping it a bit first because it's hard to tell when you're up there.

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