To Have & To Hold
V2⭐⭐⭐
Around corner to right of Yes Dear. SDS far right on jug, traverse to left/up & TO.
Videos
| Title | Description | Channel | Published at |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vanilla Ice (V2) - Land of Oz Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 27, 2026
A decent warm-up. Establishing is the crux - there's just enough texture on the starting hold to do it. | ||
| Midnight Express (V4) - Bizarro World Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 19, 2026
Very unique problem, a new favorite of mine for the grade! How many moves can be done off of a single heel hook?! The moves coming out of the roof didn't take as much out of me as I thought but I misfired a few times on the last bump with the right hand as it's a bit blind. There's a ton of beta options for making it up the face with a variety of good interesting holds. At first I wanted to go more straight on and use the holds out right but getting tension with my right toe to make that happen seemed too difficult as there's not great footholds coming out of the lip. So I used the right heel hook beta which is a bit burly but satisfying! Found plenty of small intermediates to close the distance on the bigger moves as well.
The starting hold was so moist when I arrived - I had to spent a lot of time brushing and drying it off. The top out was also a bit grimey - there's plenty to use but I recommend scoping it a bit first because it's hard to tell when you're up there. | ||
| Gateway (V3) - Bizarro World Area, Niagara Glen, Ontario, CA | June 19, 2026
A bit softer than I was expecting. The move to the lip was pretty easy with good foot placement. The hardest part for me was deciding how to hold the starting block and how to position my feet. Originally I was going to move left hand first but I settled on right hand so that the left could stay pulling on the jug start for longer. | ||
| Conquering the Niagara Glen Boulders! 🧗♂️ | Hit the Niagara Glen trails for Victoria Day 2026 to tackle some classic outdoor bouldering. Trudging up a massive boulder at the Niagara Glen in regular running shoes makes for a much sketchier climb than necessary! Shoutout to that one little pocket hold for holding everything together. Climbing shoes are going on first next time.
#NiagaraGlen #Bouldering #RockClimbing #VictoriaDay #ClimbingLife #Shorts #canadianninjawarriors #OutdoorClimbing #NiagaraGlen #BoulderingFail #ClimbingHumor #RockClimber #fatherson #GripStrength #Adventure | ||
| Shocker V4 – Niagara Glen | Idk if I started right. Guidebook says triangle hold? I just stand started. | ||
| Albatross V3 - Niagara Glen | So freaking sick. Hard committal move decently high up. I smiled so hard when I hit that slot jug after the pocket, it actually is the best hold ever. It's like a telephone jug at the gym. | ||
| Niagara Glen - Foot Fetish - V3 | 20240414 - I started matched on the block, but left hand should start on the hold left of the block. It's marginally more difficult the way I started. | ||
| Infected Mushroom Left V7 - Niagara Glen | Honestly pretty tough. Took me way to long to figure out the end sequence, eventually I just threw for the hold and it worked. | ||
| Zozobra V9/10 Niagara Glen Bouldering | "Zozobra" V9/V10 at the Niagara Glen. Ever since I first stepped foot in the Glen 5 years ago, this climb has been in the back of my head as a life-lister. At the time, I was climbing V6/V7, and I figured I would come back when I felt like I could flash it.
I didnt flash it today, but I did do it 4th go. My first go I missed the deep pocket on the first move, and my next two goes I chickened out on the left hand bump move. My fourth go I sent, doing the drop knee move the first time I got there.
The movement, holds, and line are spectacular to say the least. 4 stars for sure. The starting holds did break off back in Nov of 2020. I never touched the climb before today, so I can't speak to if it's harder or easier than before. I found the difficult moves to be the first move, and the left hand bump move (third). Both of which were affected by the hold break. Honestly, I thought the drop knee move and top out were pretty chill.
Thanks @joeysuster21 for the day trip car company, pads, spots, and stoke.
#bouldering #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #niagaraglennaturereserve | ||
| 20220731 Bouldering 1st Anniversary, First outdoor bouldering, Ouch! Sharp Rocks, Niagara Glenn | It has been a year since started bouldering. Luckily I had a chance to boulder outdoor at Niagara Glenn with friends on a special day. How was it? The weather was great, but bouldering on real rock wasn't easy at all. No matter what type of hold, crimps, jugs,... most of them were in a sharp and uneven shape, so holding them properly wasn't easy. I have to appreciate the indoor climbing holds. No more complains in any type of holds in the gym lol. Even the crappy, old, dusty or slippery one in any gym, still they are better than the real rock in my opinion. :) Cheers! | ||
| Funk-Schwey (v10) Niagara glen (post breakage) | A crucial crux hold broke on this climb last summer but luckily a sidepull was left in its place and I was able to repeat it.
Music: Family Shop // Schwey | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering - Pica V5 | The Glen - Niagara Falls
Old Country - Georger Area
Pica - V5
Here is most of the process that I went through to get the send on this boulder problem. I missed the initial day starting on it and going through beta's for the first time but this captures sessions 2,3,4 & 5. Looking at the footage now, its easy to see I need to work on dialling in my beta and remembering the movement better. Each attempt I believe I was strong enough but because of many minor mistakes, I was always wasting valuable energy that I needed for the end crux moves (where I fell from about 90% of my attempts). When trying to match that second last crimp, I would always let my upper body sag a little which caused gravity to be victorious. Even on the send go you can see my body sag a little and I struggled to hold on.
Send footage @ 7:52
If you enjoyed this and seeing the process that I went through please give this video a thumbs up and consider subscribing for more climbing content on the way :) | ||
| Closed Eye Visuals V10 Niagara Glen Bouldering | My first v10! I grabbed the crux right hand hold with my front 2 fingers and thumb, and had to readjust to add my ring finger on before I could move off the left hand. #V10 #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #niagraglen |