Rule of Thumb
V9⭐⭐
SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right.
Videos
| Title | Description | Channel | Published at |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Complete Guide - V7 - (54!) Niagara Glen Bouldering | Asian Friends - 0:04
Back To His Future - 0:44
Balrog Battle - 1:06 - V7/8?
Beef Baron* - 1:48 - very likely broke and has not been done since. **EDIT - done by Leo and Jacquie in 2025. Was more up the left side of the face than I had thought.
Black Dragon - 2:03
Blazed - 2:39
Classified - 3:35
Contact SDS - 4:09
Diamond In The Rough - 4:53
Doughnut Munching Canadians - 6:50
Energy Crisis - 7:42
English Doodoo - 8:56
Floor Is Lava - 9:47 - Proposed V7
Full Moon Rising - 10:18
Girls Of Cheektowaga - 11:23
Gulag - 11:51
Happy Thoughts Dyno Variation - 12:21- Contrived
(The) Honeymoon - 12:38
(The) Hunter - 32:16
Infected Mushroom Left - 13:09
Ivy League - 13:57
Kamikaze - 14:23 - Proposed V7
Krymptonite - 14:59
K9 Track Suit Low - 15:24 - (arête eliminate)
Life O’Reilly SDS - 16:23
Low Rider - 16:57
Mangler* - 18:43 - very likely broke and has not been done since
Mighty Mitges - 18:58 - V7/8
Mostly Harmless - 19:27
Nogoko - 20:21 - V6/7
Nothing Static - 21:03
No U-turn SDS - 21:34
Paste Low - 22:08
Peace and Love - 22:31 - V6/7?
Pirates Of The Caribbean - 22:57
Previous Tapped - 23:52 - V6 (seems super sandbagged) / 7?
Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS - 24:31
Repet - 25:17 - V6/7 - contrived
Rim-Job Arête - 25:57 - ***access affected by water level
Royale With Cheese - 26:35
Rule of Thumb - 27:27
Shackled Babies - 28:02
Shadow Boxing - 29:14
Stickler - 29:54 - V6/maybe7?
Stoking The Fire - 30:44
Supercell - 31:32
The Honeymoon - 12:38
The Hunter - 32:16
Total Compression - 32:51 - *Typically exits around the right side
Trouble And Strife - 33:43
Undercover - 34:12 - Proposed V7
Under Direct Rule - 34:52
Vigilante Justice - 35:24 - V6/7
What Hands Can Grasp - 35:52 - V6/7
White Dragon - 36:43 - V7/maybe8+?
Young Offender - 37:49 - Contrived start?
Niagara Glen Bouldering V7
#climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen | ||
| I try to climb TEN V8s in a single session / Niagara Glen Bouldering | Last summer (2021) I brought back the glen top ten challenge! This time going for my top ten V8s at the niagara glen in a day. I was heading out for a climbing trip to the west coast in a week or so and used this an opportunity to test myself, and build up my physical preparedness and mental confidence. Doing this was a bit of a risk. If it didn't go well, it could have easily done the opposite - grinding me down physically and mentally. If I gave myself a challenge that was too easy, it wouldn't have had much benefit.
Come along this VLOG style day at the glen as I share some of my tips, thoughts, analysis, and of course, climbing!
Orient Express (2:05)
Peewee (4:16)
Slaughterhouse (7:26)
Celebrex (9:01)
Rule of Thumb (13:01) - **Seems to likely be ~V7 according to Sendage consensus
Sharp Shooter (14:41)
One Inch Punch (16:46)
Neolithic (21:07)
Mighty Mitges (23:51)
Chain Reaction (25:06)
For more thoughts on the boulders:
https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott
Check out my website for:
- Climbing Injury Consultations
- Climbing Strength Assessments
- Coaching and Programming
https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/
#niagarafalls #bouldering #climbing | ||
| Rule of thumb (V8/7b): Niagara Glen - Maria and Ratul | Rule of thumb (V8/7b)
Beginning of this year Maria & Ratul climbed a hidden gem on a boulder problem located in Niagara Glen, Old country sector that was tucked away next to the main trail
The problem starts on two small crimps that require a badass crossover move before extending out to the featured 'rule of thumb' hold. Then you establish your feet to launch for the top roof edge with your left hand and pull up to top out the sketchy slab climb (Spooky) | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering 2018-2020 | Shout out to all the peeps who helped film and spot for the vids, you're the real goats.
Harry, Wes, Will, James, Patrick, Kevin, Tej, Russel, Jeff and everyone else who we met while in the glen.
0:00 Intro
0:07 Running Man V2
1:17 Eye Sickle V2
2:08 Spiderman V3
3:27 Second Thoughts (Aiden) V3
4:26 Megaman V3 (Aiden)
5:16 Mamma Mia V4
6:14 Higher Ground V4
6:56 Love of My Life V4
7:23 Darlene V4
7:44 The Plot V4 (Aiden)
8:11 Brave New World V5
8:58 The Stand V5
9:50 Here I Go Again V5
11:15 Anklet V5
11:40 Pica V5
12:30 Black Magic V6
13:08 Ripple Direct V6
14:39 My Upside Down Milkshake V6
15:22 Windy City V6
16:04 Shocking Revelations V6
17:20 Thunder and Lightning V6
17:52 Trilobite V6
18:40 Life O'Riley Stand V6
19:19 Contact Stand V6
20:16 Super Sharp Shooter V6
20:59 Sharkey Problem V6
21:40 Eyes Wide Open V6 (Aiden)
22:26 Sibishii V6/7
23:00 Life O'Riley Sit V7
23:42 Contact Sit (First Contact) V7
24:36 Infected Mushroom Left V7 (Matt)
25:50 Black Dragon V7 (Matt)
26:17 Nogoko V7 (Matt)
27:12 Floryshe V8 (Aiden)
27:39 Rule of Thumb V8 (Aiden)
28:26 Cocina V8 (Aiden)
29:04 Personal Vendetta V8 (Matt)
30:28 Peewee V8 (Matt)
30:58 Orient Express V8
31:46 Chain Reaction V9 (Aiden)
32:42 Rigormortis V9 (Matt)
Socials:
Jeremy @jeremybaziw https://www.instagram.com/jeremybaziw/?hl=en
Aiden @yellowholdclimber https://www.instagram.com/yellowholdclimber/?hl=en
Matt @_matthewconlin https://www.instagram.com/_matthewconlin/?hl=en
Crew Instagram @monkeymodeclimbing https://www.instagram.com/monkeymodeclimbing/?hl=en
#niagaraglen #bouldering | ||
| Niagara Glen Bouldering Moderates: Summer 2017 | A few clips climbing at the Niagara Glen in Southern Canada.
Mortal Combat V3 (0:15)
Sibishi V6 (0:48)
The Flesh Prince V6 (1:14)
Carpet Munching Diablos V6 (2:09)
Floryshe V8 (2:48)
Immaculate V3 (3:24)
Nogoko V7 (3:45)
Walk the Dog V3 (4:33) Jake Tiger
Windy City V6 (5:10) Jake Tiger
Anklet V5 (6:05)
Rule of Thumb V8 (6:30)
Super Sharp Shooter V6 (7:11)
Glory V4 (7:44)
Pica V5 (8:02) Jake Tiger
My Upsidedown Milkshake V6 (8:51)
Chain Reaction V9 (9:26)
Independent V6 (10:31)
Peewee V8 (11:04)
huge thank you to Organic Climbing and Sender Gear!!
we are also creating a new updated guidebook for the glen, check it out!
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1830945538/niagara-glen-bouldering-guidebook |