Rule of Thumb

V9⭐⭐

SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right.

Videos

TitleDescriptionChannelPublished at
The Complete Guide - V7 - (54!) Niagara Glen Bouldering
Asian Friends - 0:04 Back To His Future - 0:44 Balrog Battle - 1:06 - V7/8? Beef Baron* - 1:48 - very likely broke and has not been done since. **EDIT - done by Leo and Jacquie in 2025. Was more up the left side of the face than I had thought. Black Dragon - 2:03 Blazed - 2:39 Classified - 3:35 Contact SDS - 4:09 Diamond In The Rough - 4:53 Doughnut Munching Canadians - 6:50 Energy Crisis - 7:42 English Doodoo - 8:56 Floor Is Lava - 9:47 - Proposed V7 Full Moon Rising - 10:18 Girls Of Cheektowaga - 11:23 Gulag - 11:51 Happy Thoughts Dyno Variation - 12:21- Contrived (The) Honeymoon - 12:38 (The) Hunter - 32:16 Infected Mushroom Left - 13:09 Ivy League - 13:57 Kamikaze - 14:23 - Proposed V7 Krymptonite - 14:59 K9 Track Suit Low - 15:24 - (arête eliminate) Life O’Reilly SDS - 16:23 Low Rider - 16:57 Mangler* - 18:43 - very likely broke and has not been done since Mighty Mitges - 18:58 - V7/8 Mostly Harmless - 19:27 Nogoko - 20:21 - V6/7 Nothing Static - 21:03 No U-turn SDS - 21:34 Paste Low - 22:08 Peace and Love - 22:31 - V6/7? Pirates Of The Caribbean - 22:57 Previous Tapped - 23:52 - V6 (seems super sandbagged) / 7? Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS - 24:31 Repet - 25:17 - V6/7 - contrived Rim-Job Arête - 25:57 - ***access affected by water level Royale With Cheese - 26:35 Rule of Thumb - 27:27 Shackled Babies - 28:02 Shadow Boxing - 29:14 Stickler - 29:54 - V6/maybe7? Stoking The Fire - 30:44 Supercell - 31:32 The Honeymoon - 12:38 The Hunter - 32:16 Total Compression - 32:51 - *Typically exits around the right side Trouble And Strife - 33:43 Undercover - 34:12 - Proposed V7 Under Direct Rule - 34:52 Vigilante Justice - 35:24 - V6/7 What Hands Can Grasp - 35:52 - V6/7 White Dragon - 36:43 - V7/maybe8+? Young Offender - 37:49 - Contrived start? Niagara Glen Bouldering V7 #climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen
I try to climb TEN V8s in a single session / Niagara Glen Bouldering
Last summer (2021) I brought back the glen top ten challenge! This time going for my top ten V8s at the niagara glen in a day. I was heading out for a climbing trip to the west coast in a week or so and used this an opportunity to test myself, and build up my physical preparedness and mental confidence. Doing this was a bit of a risk. If it didn't go well, it could have easily done the opposite - grinding me down physically and mentally. If I gave myself a challenge that was too easy, it wouldn't have had much benefit. Come along this VLOG style day at the glen as I share some of my tips, thoughts, analysis, and of course, climbing! Orient Express (2:05) Peewee (4:16) Slaughterhouse (7:26) Celebrex (9:01) Rule of Thumb (13:01) - **Seems to likely be ~V7 according to Sendage consensus Sharp Shooter (14:41) One Inch Punch (16:46) Neolithic (21:07) Mighty Mitges (23:51) Chain Reaction (25:06) For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott Check out my website for: - Climbing Injury Consultations - Climbing Strength Assessments - Coaching and Programming https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/ #niagarafalls #bouldering #climbing
Rule of thumb (V8/7b): Niagara Glen - Maria and Ratul
Rule of thumb (V8/7b) Beginning of this year Maria & Ratul climbed a hidden gem on a boulder problem located in Niagara Glen, Old country sector that was tucked away next to the main trail The problem starts on two small crimps that require a badass crossover move before extending out to the featured 'rule of thumb' hold. Then you establish your feet to launch for the top roof edge with your left hand and pull up to top out the sketchy slab climb (Spooky)
Niagara Glen Bouldering 2018-2020
Shout out to all the peeps who helped film and spot for the vids, you're the real goats. Harry, Wes, Will, James, Patrick, Kevin, Tej, Russel, Jeff and everyone else who we met while in the glen. 0:00 Intro 0:07 Running Man V2 1:17 Eye Sickle V2 2:08 Spiderman V3 3:27 Second Thoughts (Aiden) V3 4:26 Megaman V3 (Aiden) 5:16 Mamma Mia V4 6:14 Higher Ground V4 6:56 Love of My Life V4 7:23 Darlene V4 7:44 The Plot V4 (Aiden) 8:11 Brave New World V5 8:58 The Stand V5 9:50 Here I Go Again V5 11:15 Anklet V5 11:40 Pica V5 12:30 Black Magic V6 13:08 Ripple Direct V6 14:39 My Upside Down Milkshake V6 15:22 Windy City V6 16:04 Shocking Revelations V6 17:20 Thunder and Lightning V6 17:52 Trilobite V6 18:40 Life O'Riley Stand V6 19:19 Contact Stand V6 20:16 Super Sharp Shooter V6 20:59 Sharkey Problem V6 21:40 Eyes Wide Open V6 (Aiden) 22:26 Sibishii V6/7 23:00 Life O'Riley Sit V7 23:42 Contact Sit (First Contact) V7 24:36 Infected Mushroom Left V7 (Matt) 25:50 Black Dragon V7 (Matt) 26:17 Nogoko V7 (Matt) 27:12 Floryshe V8 (Aiden) 27:39 Rule of Thumb V8 (Aiden) 28:26 Cocina V8 (Aiden) 29:04 Personal Vendetta V8 (Matt) 30:28 Peewee V8 (Matt) 30:58 Orient Express V8 31:46 Chain Reaction V9 (Aiden) 32:42 Rigormortis V9 (Matt) Socials: Jeremy @jeremybaziw https://www.instagram.com/jeremybaziw/?hl=en Aiden @yellowholdclimber https://www.instagram.com/yellowholdclimber/?hl=en Matt @_matthewconlin https://www.instagram.com/_matthewconlin/?hl=en Crew Instagram @monkeymodeclimbing https://www.instagram.com/monkeymodeclimbing/?hl=en #niagaraglen #bouldering
Niagara Glen Bouldering Moderates: Summer 2017
A few clips climbing at the Niagara Glen in Southern Canada. Mortal Combat V3 (0:15) Sibishi V6 (0:48) The Flesh Prince V6 (1:14) Carpet Munching Diablos V6 (2:09) Floryshe V8 (2:48) Immaculate V3 (3:24) Nogoko V7 (3:45) Walk the Dog V3 (4:33) Jake Tiger Windy City V6 (5:10) Jake Tiger Anklet V5 (6:05) Rule of Thumb V8 (6:30) Super Sharp Shooter V6 (7:11) Glory V4 (7:44) Pica V5 (8:02) Jake Tiger My Upsidedown Milkshake V6 (8:51) Chain Reaction V9 (9:26) Independent V6 (10:31) Peewee V8 (11:04) huge thank you to Organic Climbing and Sender Gear!! we are also creating a new updated guidebook for the glen, check it out! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1830945538/niagara-glen-bouldering-guidebook