Old Country
Grade Distribution
| Name | Grade | Star rating | Traits | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| All Routes | V0- | - | Routes range from V0- to V1. | |
| All Routes | V0- | - | Traverse this face either way, or do a straight up line. Take your pick. All routes are easy. | |
| Left | V0- | - | Climb the left side and up. | |
| Middle Back | V0- | - | Start on the right side & up. | |
| All Routes | V0 | - | Climb all over the face. All routes are V0 or easier. | |
| Arête | V0 | - | Climb the right arête to the seam in the overhang. Climb the face to the top. | |
| Clueless | V0 | - | Grab the jugs; move left to the crack & finish. | |
| Crack Fiend | V0 | - | 7ft left of Subway is a face with a crack halfway up. Start below & work way up, avoid crack by using jugs | |
| Fred the Dogg | V0 | - | Climb the obvious crack in the middle of the face straight up. TO. | |
| Nothing But Flake | V0 | - | SDS at flake & 2-finger pocket. Climb the flake to the TO. | |
| Right | V0 | - | Climb the right side. | |
| Standard | V0 | - | Follow the obvious holds to the top. | |
| Subway | V0 | ⭐⭐ | Around the corner from the arête is a cute little face. Start a couple feet left of the arête & crank up the face. TO. | |
| The Bad Kind of Cheese | V0 | ⭐⭐ | Start on the left arête. Climb the face & arête to the top. | |
| The V-Way | V0 | - | Climb the prominent arête & corner on the left side back face. | |
| Standard | V0+ | - | Cruise up the easy middle line. | |
| The Ankle Traverse | V0+ | ⭐⭐ | Start on far left side of face. Traverse right while staying low. Finish on huge jug on far right side. | |
| Arête Love | V1 | ⭐ | SDS on the left arête left of Standard. Climb through pockets & buckets to the top. No top out. | |
| Death Arête | V1 | ⭐ | Around back of the boulder is an arête that faces the headwall. Climb it from bottom to TO. | |
| Exemplify | V1 | ⭐ | SDS at extreme left & pull up to jug sidepull then work up to the peak. | |
| Forgettaboutit | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Start on large pinch & good edge near back of boulder. Traverse pockets around to front to large incut jug. | |
| Left Arête | V1 | ⭐⭐ | SDS at the dual sidepulls, move up through pinches & TO on the arête. | |
| Sprain | V1 | ⭐ | Start left of Y.A.P.P. on low jug down & left. Climb the face using monos & crimps & head slightly right. | |
| Take Your Pick | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Epiphany, but left out roof on huge halfway-hidden jug sidepull. Hit lip, then jug traverse right along lip until you can get your feet over lip to TO. | |
| Women Hate Me | V1 | - | Left of Y.A.P.P. SDS on two sidepulls & climbs the arête. Use pockets & jugs to hug your way up. TO. | |
| A Climb Called Ott | V2 | - | Start just left of Spectacles. Climb through the hollow looking flake & pockets to the big bucket. | |
| Afterthought | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Hidden around corner from other problems is a mini-cave with a huge flake system coming out of it. SDS in system & monkey out that to lip, then head up & right to the fun TO. | |
| Flanco | V2 | - | Around arête 10ft to obvious vertical flake. Start on flake & small horizontal ledge to right of flake. Up & over. TO. | |
| Frozen French Fries | V2 | - | Start in the middle of the face, climb up the small edges & sidepulls to TO. | |
| Hey LG! | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 3ft right of Highstep on jug at edge of little roof on right side down low. Move right up/right to good 3-finger pocket & left up 1ft to good sidepull type pocket. Throw to sloper that’s at the end & right of the small crack, match & TO. | |
| No Time for Sitting Around | V2 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the far right of the main face on big ledge, climb up sidepulls & pockets to top. | |
| Rail Direct | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS directly under the rail at the pocket & small flake. Move up through the big pockets to the rail & TO.o | |
| Rail Slide | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Start on overhanging face, up pockets to long vertical slot to TO. Var V2 move left & up staying out of slot. | |
| Spectacles | V2 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in middle of face on large ledge. Climb up & right through diagonals & underclings to finish. | |
| Standard | V2 | - | Start on the big buckets down low on the left face. Climb the obvious moves to the top. | |
| Standard | V2 | - | Start on the pockets & edges on the right arête & climb to the top. | |
| The Flasher | V2 | - | SDS on a pocket & crimp on the left side of the boulder. Dyno to the sloping edge. | |
| The Holey One | V2 | - | A hole across from Delicatessan. Starting at lip of hole, reach up to good hold in hole. TO through hole. | |
| The Mural Traverse | V2 | ⭐ | Start on the far right side, traverse low all the way to the notch between the boulders. | |
| Toe Sucker | V2 | - | SDS low with right in pocket at horizontal and a low left sidepull.Snag the left side jug and follow left rim up and right. TO. | |
| Adam's Virginity | V3 | - | Inch up under small roof. SDS, right on good rail, on right side of prow, left under roof on sloping rail. Slap your left hand up the front face using crimps & pockets. Grab the jug & pull up over lip. TO. | |
| Blow Chicks Clothes Off | V3 | ⭐ | Start at 2 side pulls chest high. Move to jug. Use intermediate & move to blocky crimp do long lock off move to jugs. TO. SDS V4 | |
| Chuu! | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start on a right incut crimp & left ledge. Move up and to the left, cutting through the crimps in the middle of Pica, & hit the closer left side pull. Toss up to the high right side pull & finish on the flakey jug to the left. Watch for the dab on the pad at the start! The left arete, including the closer flakes, are out. | |
| Cool | V3 | - | SDS low on 2-finger pocket/knob & edge. Move through edges to the TO staying left of the arête. | |
| Foot Fetish | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start low right side and get sidepulls and crimps to reach incut feature and lip. TO. | |
| Highstep Arête | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under huge underclings at right arête. Move up through big jug on right & pockets on arête. TO. | |
| Keep it on the Down Low | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS in cleft, right on sloping rail of What, left super low on slopey edge. Sink heel, up/right on crimps to highball TO. | |
| King of Torts | V3 | ⭐ | SDS left side on small pocket & right sidepull to 2 large ledges. Up crimps to sidepull. Step off. | |
| Monolithic | V3 | - | Start as for Darlene except use a mono to hit a solid jug out right (bypass the chossy flakes). | |
| Mud Skipper | V3 | - | Climb the clean face avoiding the dihedrals on either side. | |
| Pete's Pinch | V3 | - | Start on right arête on improbable micro-edge & a pocket. Climb through the sidepull & 2 underclings to the top. | |
| Pocket Rocket | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS at awkward start on 2 pinch pockets (right) & a good pocket right of flake. Up on slopey pocket to top. | |
| Procreation | V3 | - | Start left in birth canal pocket, right on arête. Heel hook right arête. Left to huge block, match in top slot of block with right. Shoot left to either sidepull, or crimp, shoot right to sharp mini jug. Shoot left to finish jug match on jug & step off. | |
| Rails Problem | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Pete's Pinch. At the big pinch, move right to an edge & cruise up the obvious rail to the top. TO. | |
| Right Arête | V3 | ⭐ | Start on far right side on main face. Climb small pockets & incut edges to top. Stay right of arête. | |
| Superglue | V3 | ⭐ | SDS at the huge pocket on the right corner. Move right to the sloper & up arête. TO. | |
| Thelmic | V3 | ⭐ | SDS to the right on low flaky jugs. Work up to a right hand sidepull with good thumb catch. Move left to crimpy gaston. Hit the lip and top it out. | |
| Walk the Dogg | V3 | - | Start as Windy City then go right and up | |
| Xcitement | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Walk up the hill and right of the inverted "V". SDS on a black flake. Go up and right to a double undercling, then go up and left through pockets to the finish on the big ledge. Look, but don't touch the fragile flakes out right. | |
| Darlene | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on right facing rail. Move right to good edge, long reach left to good incut pocket & cross over to finish at Pica. | |
| Delicatessan | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start on the dual sidepulls as for Energy Crisis. End at the big undercling (start of Pica). | |
| Exlax | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on awkward start in dihedral & cruise through the open book. | |
| Eyes Lay Waste | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left of Rule on edge of overhang. Right on sidepull on face, left on blunt arête. Up/right on sidepulls, slots, TO at huge mail slot jug at peak of arête. | |
| Friction Dyno | V4 | ⭐ | Start on the two handed rail of Pulp Friction, paste your feet and dyno straight up to a right handed sloping jug | |
| Gary's Highball | V4 | - | Climb the left arête from the bottom ALL the way to the TO. | |
| Glory | V4 | - | Sit start on low flakes. Move up and left and finish on the obvious jug. No top out. | |
| Jackson 5 | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on 2-finger pocket left of flake & another small pocket farther left & down low. Up pockets left of flake. TO. | |
| Logger Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start same as Sharpshooter. Reach up to good edges & hit the arête. Use a deep mono to reach the TO. | |
| Love of my Life | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start 9ft left of Threesome on chalky horizontal rail. Bump right to blocky gaston, reach high with left to deep undercling/sidepull, match & make move left to sharp horizontal flake. Finish above on sharp, knife-blade jugs. | |
| Low Traverse | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Forget on small pocket & undercling. Traverse low, staying under lip. TO right arête. Var V4/5 Start on opposing sidepulls as for Rail Problem. Traverse low through good sidepull to normal start. | |
| Nest Egg | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on large hueco & traverse left through a series of holds to arête. Couple of cool moves, TO on same arête. | |
| One... Mississppi | V4 | ⭐⭐ | 2ft right of Flanco Start left on small sidepull below flake, right in 3-finger pocket 3ft across face. Straight up & over keeping hands off the flake. TO. | |
| The Birds Nest | V4 | ⭐ | Problem is on the far right of the boulder. SDS on undercling and side pull, move up right into the far right of the boulder to giant pinches, sloper, then a pocket, finish on jug at the top. | |
| Traverse | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start somewhere near X-files & traverse right to finish on Spectacles. | |
| X-Files | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on cool slopey edges right of Exlax. Up/right on cool edges. Finish jug is 4ft to right of start holds. | |
| Y.A.P.P. | V4 | - | Start on back of boulder to right of arête on sidepull & pinch. Up to crazy move to slanting pocket. Up to mossy TO. | |
| K8 | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | 3ft left of K9. SDS, left on big sidepull, right on flaky pinch. Left to crimp, right to pocket crimp, left up to crimp, hit left finishing slope of K9 & TO over higher left side. | |
| Chuck Norris | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start as per Threesome but go straight up past the Threesome ledge to a rail with crimpy incuts. Continue up to the finish jugs of Threesome on more crimps and incuts. | |
| Girl Scout | V5 | ⭐ | SDS in cleft on right side of boulder on jug pinch, right to slopey pocket sidepull to good pocket on right side. | |
| Mr. Armageddon | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do Delicatessen then from the big undercling DOUBLE-DYNO to the big sloppy ledge. | |
| Pica | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in the cave on the double undercling block. Move right around the corner; follow the seam to the top. | |
| Running Man | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on spike, right next to left on edge of rail. Dyno up/right to huge carved out whirlpool area. TO through open slot. | |
| Windy City | V5 | - | Start down low on the ledge & pocket. Traverse up & left to the top. (SDS V6) | |
| Young Offender | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Right side of boulder. Left sidepulling pockety stuff, right on crimp sidepull, up to undercling with thumb hole, straight up to TO. | |
| Deceit and Betrayal | V5+ | ⭐⭐ | Start same a sharpshooter, go straight up the face doing a long move finishing 2 ft to the left of the Horn | |
| Floryshe Left | V6 | - | Start as Floyshe but finish on the final jugs of Love of My Life | |
| K9 Track Suit | V6 | - | Far right of boulder. SDS, left on crimp & undercling (both on +1 grade). Slopers to high step to gain slab. | |
| K9 Track Suit Low | V6 | - | Start with both hands on the undercling rail right of K8. Move up and left through slopers to top out. The right arete is out. | |
| Pulp Friction | V6 | - | SDS to the right of Sepukku on a right hand mono and slopy left hand pinch. Grab the right handed juggy crimp, move up to the rail, cross into a blocky crimp, up to a sloping jug, and top out on the slab. | |
| Ripple | V6 | ⭐ | Start right on wild rippled pocket. Cruise up & left on arête to seam & edges to TO. | |
| Super Sharp Shooter | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder. Move up & right through slopers to some small pockets up high. VAR V7 SDS on low spike undercling & sloper above it. Hit small crimp, match in undercling. Climb Super Sharp Sharpshooter. | |
| Energy Crisis | V6+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Delicatessan & the climb Pica. | |
| My Upside-down Milkshake | V6+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Opposite Delicate. SDS on large pocket, up/left on small crimp, match sloping edge, fire to huge hole in boulder, exit hole. | |
| Ripple Direct | V6+ | ⭐ | Climb direct start to ripple on sidepulls. | |
| Threesome | V6+ | ⭐ | SDS with right on left hand of Mangler, left on pocket thing. Slap arête & up on crimps. Finish as for Mangler. | |
| What Hands Can Grasp | V6+ | - | SDS in cleft, left on sloping rail, right low on large sidepull. Up/left to 2 opposing pinches, left on crimps to vertical slot. TO. | |
| Approaching Guiding Light | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on left side of 45 wall in cave, left on a u-shaped crimp, right on pinch. Hit good edge, cross to sloper & hit lip. TO. | |
| FA Glory | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link. | |
| Gulag | V7 | ⭐ | Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart. | |
| Mangler Jr. | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V. | |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. | |
| Floryshe | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the curved ledge in the middle of the X Boulder; go straight up through series of side pulls and underclings to a triangular hold. Get pockety dish directly to the left of the triangle and bust it up to a dish just to the right of the large flake, over the lip. Two jugs above the dish finish it. | |
| Four Leaf Clover | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder on obvious phallic. Traverse right, doing huge move to Shadow start crimp & continue along reaching large 3- finger of Threesome. Finish Threesome. | |
| Mangler Sr. | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS matched at bottom of inverted "V", up on small holds to "mangler" crimp (right) up to lip. Hit the point of the "V"; pop for a good hold than cruise the flake system. Drop down. | |
| One Inch Punch | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Right of Mangler. SDS, left on sidepull crimp, right near base of mini arête. Slap up right mini-arête. Finish as for 'Mangler'. | |
| Epiphany | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start on sharp black 2-handed jug. Straight out roof on thuggish gastons, pockets & pinches. Stab a deep slot in headwall & campus up to jug, straight above. TO on gigantic holds. | |
| Rule of Thumb | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right. | |
| Shadow Boxing | V9 | ⭐ | Start on flat 8-finger edge 4ft right of Gulag. Long move to get tiny left-facing sharp crimp sidepull, head up to sidepull flakes. Keep working up/left, resisting the urge to jump right into an adjacent problem. Finish over the lip on big holds. | |
| Old Man Gillronamoe | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on pile of rock in middle of face. Find a good incut crimp for left and a good three finger undercling for right, both about waist/ chest high. Work up and slightly right through a crimp, sidepull and a good pocket. BIG move straight up to a gaston. Work over left to the slash in the upper face of the boulder. TO on jugs. | |
| Seppuku | V10 | - | Stand start on the undercling horn. Move up and right, turn the lip onto the slab and top out.
FA: Matt Corstorphine | |
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. | |
| Zozobra Sit | V10 | - | Sit start to Zozobra | |
| Young Thugs | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb into Young Offender. FA Ethan Salvo. | |
| Zozobra | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on left side of face. left hand undercling, and right hand flat edge. Work up and slightly right through the succession of right hand, left hand moves, with sequential feet, till you reach a finger bucket and a good edge. Big move up to left leaning slash in the upper face, match and top out on good jugs. |