Old Country

Routes

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    NameGrade ↑Star ratingDescription
    Approaching Guiding LightV7⭐⭐
    SDS on left side of 45 wall in cave, left on a u-shaped crimp, right on pinch. Hit good edge, cross to sloper & hit lip. TO.
    FA GloryV7⭐⭐⭐
    Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link.
    Floor is LavaV7⭐⭐⭐
    Face away from 'Epiphany', looking downhill and slightly to the right. This problem is in the middle of the face of a long short arching boulder that is about 35º overhung. SDS in a pit between two rocks matched on an undercling that is positive but angled awkwardly. Go straight up using a perfect sloping edge, crimps, and/or side-pulls. Snag the lip and T/O.
    GulagV7
    Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart.
    Mangler Jr.V7⭐⭐
    Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V.
    SharpshooterV7⭐⭐
    Sit start with one hand low on an undercling and your other hand high on the ultra slick foot used for Super Sharpshooter and climb into Super Sharpshooter.
    Under Direct RuleV7⭐⭐
    SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right.
    FlorysheV8⭐⭐⭐
    Start on the curved ledge in the middle of the X Boulder; go straight up through series of side pulls and underclings to a triangular hold. Get pockety dish directly to the left of the triangle and bust it up to a dish just to the right of the large flake, over the lip. Two jugs above the dish finish it.
    Four Leaf CloverV8⭐⭐⭐
    Left side of boulder on obvious phallic. Traverse right, doing huge move to Shadow start crimp & continue along reaching large 3- finger of Threesome. Finish Threesome.
    Mangler Sr.V8⭐⭐
    SDS matched at bottom of inverted "V", up on small holds to "mangler" crimp (right) up to lip. Hit the point of the "V"; pop for a good hold than cruise the flake system. Drop down.
    One Inch PunchV8⭐⭐⭐⭐
    Right of Mangler. SDS, left on sidepull crimp, right near base of mini arête. Slap up right mini-arête. Finish as for 'Mangler'.
    EpiphanyV9⭐⭐
    Start on sharp black 2-handed jug. Straight out roof on thuggish gastons, pockets & pinches. Stab a deep slot in headwall & campus up to jug, straight above. TO on gigantic holds.
    Rule of ThumbV9⭐⭐
    SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right.
    Shadow BoxingV9
    Start on flat 8-finger edge 4ft right of Gulag. Long move to get tiny left-facing sharp crimp sidepull, head up to sidepull flakes. Keep working up/left, resisting the urge to jump right into an adjacent problem. Finish over the lip on big holds.
    Old Man GloomV10⭐⭐⭐⭐
    SS on pile of rock in middle of face. Find a good incut crimp for left and a good three finger undercling for right, both about waist/ chest high. Work up and slightly right through a crimp, sidepull and a good pocket. BIG move straight up to a gaston. Work over left to the slash in the upper face of the boulder. TO on jugs.