Pica

Niagara Glen Ontario, Canada.

20240723

Owwwwww

Timestamps for sends: Women Hate Me (V2) 0:25 Y.A.P.P (V1): 0:25 Foot Fetish (V3): 2:22 Pica (V5): 4:18 Running Man (V2): 5:36 Royal with Cheese (V7 no send): 6:10 Higher Ground (V4): 7:44

After several short trips to Niagara, we realized that Cedar had sent boulders at every grade from V1 to V8. Here are her favorites - one per grade. (0:00) Intro (0:30) V8 - One Inch Punch (2023) (3:11) V7 - Nogoko (2023) (4:11) V6 - Threesome (2021) (5:28) V5 - Pica (2023) (6:19) V4 - Balance (2023) (6:55) V3 - Kneebar (2020) (7:49) V2 - Electric French Fry* (2021) (8:31) V1 - Musetta's Waltz (2023) * This video is actually from her send of the "sit" version of this problem (V6). #climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering

This is a **RE-RELEASE** and features an additional 8 boulder problems on sandstone. **DISCLAIMER** the paths to these boulders are still closed to my understanding and are potentially hazardous. Be smart and respectful. On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Bad Beta (7:05) The Pondering (7:40) (RICH) Boba Fett (8:01) + Maha (8:18) Signal the Riflemen (8:56) - - Novacane (9:14) (CAM) Stitches (10:10) Dung Beetle (10:55) Pica (11:38) Delicatessen (12:21) Blow Chicks Clothes off (12:56) - - Chuck Norris (13:22) Girl Scout (14:18) (RICH) - - The Flasher (14:52) K8 (15:22) Bounty Hunter (15:50) Bulgogi (16:27) Beast Man (16:44) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (17:16) + Pegasus (17:41) + Hellfire (18:11) The Baroness (18:32) - Pegleg (18:58) Glue Babies (19:22) Hightimes (19:52) - - Pothole (20:30) (CAM)

Shout out to all the peeps who helped film and spot for the vids, you're the real goats. Harry, Wes, Will, James, Patrick, Kevin, Tej, Russel, Jeff and everyone else who we met while in the glen. 0:00 Intro 0:07 Running Man V2 1:17 Eye Sickle V2 2:08 Spiderman V3 3:27 Second Thoughts (Aiden) V3 4:26 Megaman V3 (Aiden) 5:16 Mamma Mia V4 6:14 Higher Ground V4 6:56 Love of My Life V4 7:23 Darlene V4 7:44 The Plot V4 (Aiden) 8:11 Brave New World V5 8:58 The Stand V5 9:50 Here I Go Again V5 11:15 Anklet V5 11:40 Pica V5 12:30 Black Magic V6 13:08 Ripple Direct V6 14:39 My Upside Down Milkshake V6 15:22 Windy City V6 16:04 Shocking Revelations V6 17:20 Thunder and Lightning V6 17:52 Trilobite V6 18:40 Life O'Riley Stand V6 19:19 Contact Stand V6 20:16 Super Sharp Shooter V6 20:59 Sharkey Problem V6 21:40 Eyes Wide Open V6 (Aiden) 22:26 Sibishii V6/7 23:00 Life O'Riley Sit V7 23:42 Contact Sit (First Contact) V7 24:36 Infected Mushroom Left V7 (Matt) 25:50 Black Dragon V7 (Matt) 26:17 Nogoko V7 (Matt) 27:12 Floryshe V8 (Aiden) 27:39 Rule of Thumb V8 (Aiden) 28:26 Cocina V8 (Aiden) 29:04 Personal Vendetta V8 (Matt) 30:28 Peewee V8 (Matt) 30:58 Orient Express V8 31:46 Chain Reaction V9 (Aiden) 32:42 Rigormortis V9 (Matt) Socials: Jeremy @jeremybaziw https://www.instagram.com/jeremybaziw/?hl=en Aiden @yellowholdclimber https://www.instagram.com/yellowholdclimber/?hl=en Matt @_matthewconlin https://www.instagram.com/_matthewconlin/?hl=en Crew Instagram @monkeymodeclimbing https://www.instagram.com/monkeymodeclimbing/?hl=en #niagaraglen #bouldering

On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I climbed every boulder featured in this film (plus 8 others that were not featured). I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Dung Beetle (7:05) Pica (7:48) Delicatessen (8:31) Blow Chicks Clothes off (9:05) - - Chuck Norris (9:32) Girl Scout (10:28) (RICH) - - The Flasher (11:01) K8 (11:33) Bounty Hunter (11:59) Beast Man (12:37) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (13:08) + Pegasus (13:33) + Hellfire (14:04) The Baroness (14:29) - Pegleg (14:55) Glue Babies (15:20) Hightimes (15:50) - - Pothole (16:32) (CAM)

The Glen - Niagara Falls Old Country - Georger Area Pica - V5 Here is most of the process that I went through to get the send on this boulder problem. I missed the initial day starting on it and going through beta's for the first time but this captures sessions 2,3,4 & 5. Looking at the footage now, its easy to see I need to work on dialling in my beta and remembering the movement better. Each attempt I believe I was strong enough but because of many minor mistakes, I was always wasting valuable energy that I needed for the end crux moves (where I fell from about 90% of my attempts). When trying to match that second last crimp, I would always let my upper body sag a little which caused gravity to be victorious. Even on the send go you can see my body sag a little and I struggled to hold on. Send footage @ 7:52 If you enjoyed this and seeing the process that I went through please give this video a thumbs up and consider subscribing for more climbing content on the way :)

Quick edit of the Pica v5 boulder problem at the Niagara Glen. Shot via GoPro Hero 6 with default settings- not Protune. Edit via Davinci Resolve

Another episode of THE GLEN SUB-TEN with some never before seen footage :D! Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop Blazed | V7 (0:09) Low Rider | V7+ (1:19) -- Sharkey Problem Extension* Nintendo Thumb | V6 (3:06) Pica | V5 (3:27) Darlene | V4 (4:40) Higher Ground | V4 (5:01) Brian's Got A Rubber Toy | V5- (5:31) Tales Of Power | V6 (6:18) Total Compression a.k.a. Sting | V7 (7:31) - exited possibly a little early - but I think grade stands and this was potentially more sketchy... Fear Of A Toothed Vagina a.k.a. Fear | V9+ (8:46) Doughnut Munching Canadians | V7 (9:52) Hook Direct | V4 (11:02) Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook, various opinions, & my personal experience. "-" = soft / "+" = hard For More Thoughts: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

A few clips climbing at the Niagara Glen in Southern Canada. Mortal Combat V3 (0:15) Sibishi V6 (0:48) The Flesh Prince V6 (1:14) Carpet Munching Diablos V6 (2:09) Floryshe V8 (2:48) Immaculate V3 (3:24) Nogoko V7 (3:45) Walk the Dog V3 (4:33) Jake Tiger Windy City V6 (5:10) Jake Tiger Anklet V5 (6:05) Rule of Thumb V8 (6:30) Super Sharp Shooter V6 (7:11) Glory V4 (7:44) Pica V5 (8:02) Jake Tiger My Upsidedown Milkshake V6 (8:51) Chain Reaction V9 (9:26) Independent V6 (10:31) Peewee V8 (11:04) huge thank you to Organic Climbing and Sender Gear!! we are also creating a new updated guidebook for the glen, check it out! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1830945538/niagara-glen-bouldering-guidebook

Not a bad way to spend the day off work, climbing Novacaine [V5] at the Niagara Glen, Niagara, Ontario. Finally found this cave that we spent a solid hour or two searching for last time we went. Came back with GPS coordinates this time :P. Climbed and filmed on September 30, 2016 after working on another project (Pica [V5]). Can't wait to go back and get the send! Subscribe for more!

Jon gets one of his projects, Pica [V5] in Old Country (Lower), Niagara Glen, Ontario. Climbed and filmed August 20, 2016. Subscribe for more content!