Brave New World

20250427

#shorts #short

0:00 Brave New World (V5) 0:49 The Doors of Perception (V6)

Sending this problem was an exorcism in the riddance of old demons from a time when I felt too weak to ever climb V5 outdoors. One of my most fulfilling sends!

This is a **RE-RELEASE** and features an additional 8 boulder problems on sandstone. **DISCLAIMER** the paths to these boulders are still closed to my understanding and are potentially hazardous. Be smart and respectful. On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Bad Beta (7:05) The Pondering (7:40) (RICH) Boba Fett (8:01) + Maha (8:18) Signal the Riflemen (8:56) - - Novacane (9:14) (CAM) Stitches (10:10) Dung Beetle (10:55) Pica (11:38) Delicatessen (12:21) Blow Chicks Clothes off (12:56) - - Chuck Norris (13:22) Girl Scout (14:18) (RICH) - - The Flasher (14:52) K8 (15:22) Bounty Hunter (15:50) Bulgogi (16:27) Beast Man (16:44) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (17:16) + Pegasus (17:41) + Hellfire (18:11) The Baroness (18:32) - Pegleg (18:58) Glue Babies (19:22) Hightimes (19:52) - - Pothole (20:30) (CAM)

On December 9th 2020 I decided to do as many V5 boulder problems at the Niagara Glen as I could (according to what is a V5 in the most current guidebook. A few problems turned out easier then v5 and some turned out to maybe a bit harder than v5, as indicated by the + and -). The number turned out to be 38 total from 7:30am to 6:30pm. I was wrecked after this. I climbed every boulder featured in this film (plus 8 others that were not featured). I documented the time I sent each boulder as indicated in the bottom left corner before each boulder. V5 day lets goooooo! Thanks Cam, Sam and Rich for joining, helping with filming/spotting and dragging pads everywhere. Anklet (0:25) Jaws (0:44) Great Wall of China (1:07) Semblance (1:47) (SAM) Hydraulic (2:28) The Stand (3:00) Brave New World (3:46) (SAM) + Achille's Heel (4:29) + Bottle Rocket (5:00) - Husbands and Lies (5:23) Horshack's Last Dance (5:56) - - Tractorbeam Traverse (6:25) (CAM) - - Dung Beetle (7:05) Pica (7:48) Delicatessen (8:31) Blow Chicks Clothes off (9:05) - - Chuck Norris (9:32) Girl Scout (10:28) (RICH) - - The Flasher (11:01) K8 (11:33) Bounty Hunter (11:59) Beast Man (12:37) - Real Kung Fu Massacre (13:08) + Pegasus (13:33) + Hellfire (14:04) The Baroness (14:29) - Pegleg (14:55) Glue Babies (15:20) Hightimes (15:50) - - Pothole (16:32) (CAM)

Left hand variation of "The doors of perception (V6)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Hard for the grade, I found the 2nd move to be the hardest until I found the beta tweaks that worked for me. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Right hand variation of "Brave New World (V5)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents