Old Country

Routes

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    NameGrade ↑Star ratingDescription
    My Upside-down MilkshakeV6+⭐⭐⭐⭐
    Opposite Delicate. SDS on large pocket, up/left on small crimp, match sloping edge, fire to huge hole in boulder, exit hole.
    Ripple DirectV6+
    Climb direct start to ripple on sidepulls.
    ThreesomeV6+
    SDS with right on left hand of Mangler, left on pocket thing. Slap arête & up on crimps. Finish as for Mangler.
    What Hands Can GraspV6+-
    SDS in cleft, left on sloping rail, right low on large sidepull. Up/left to 2 opposing pinches, left on crimps to vertical slot. TO.
    Approaching Guiding LightV7⭐⭐
    SDS on left side of 45 wall in cave, left on a u-shaped crimp, right on pinch. Hit good edge, cross to sloper & hit lip. TO.
    FA GloryV7⭐⭐⭐
    Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link.
    Floor is LavaV7⭐⭐⭐
    Face away from 'Epiphany', looking downhill and slightly to the right. This problem is in the middle of the face of a long short arching boulder that is about 35º overhung. SDS in a pit between two rocks matched on an undercling that is positive but angled awkwardly. Go straight up using a perfect sloping edge, crimps, and/or side-pulls. Snag the lip and T/O.
    GulagV7
    Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart.
    Mangler Jr.V7⭐⭐
    Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V.
    SharpshooterV7⭐⭐
    Sit start with one hand low on an undercling and your other hand high on the ultra slick foot used for Super Sharpshooter and climb into Super Sharpshooter.
    Under Direct RuleV7⭐⭐
    SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right.
    FlorysheV8⭐⭐⭐
    Start on the curved ledge in the middle of the X Boulder; go straight up through series of side pulls and underclings to a triangular hold. Get pockety dish directly to the left of the triangle and bust it up to a dish just to the right of the large flake, over the lip. Two jugs above the dish finish it.
    Four Leaf CloverV8⭐⭐⭐
    Left side of boulder on obvious phallic. Traverse right, doing huge move to Shadow start crimp & continue along reaching large 3- finger of Threesome. Finish Threesome.
    Mangler Sr.V8⭐⭐
    SDS matched at bottom of inverted "V", up on small holds to "mangler" crimp (right) up to lip. Hit the point of the "V"; pop for a good hold than cruise the flake system. Drop down.
    One Inch PunchV8⭐⭐⭐⭐
    Right of Mangler. SDS, left on sidepull crimp, right near base of mini arête. Slap up right mini-arête. Finish as for 'Mangler'.