Right

June 24, 2026 Very nice moves on this one, along with a nice variety of holds! I haven't had the opportunity to climb too many highballs and this felt like a nice place to start - the landing is a bit sloped but not rocky and very protect-able. Seems like this doesn't see too much action - the holds at the top were very mossy so definitely inspect first. If you follow the direct line as I did (slightly right of the apex) there is a friendly jug crack beyond the lip.

June 21, 2026 The boulder is imposing but this line is too good to pass on if you have the pads to protect it! The landing is very rocky - for reference we used 2 big pads and 2 regular sized pads. Climbs really well - lots of beta options through the beginning with many usable pockets. Make sure you have your feet set up well for the big cross move. Keep your head for the top out as not all the holds on the lip are as juggy as they look. What I initially grabbed on the right side had me trying harder than I expected but the left was more forgiving.

June 19, 2026 Very unique problem, a new favorite of mine for the grade! How many moves can be done off of a single heel hook?! The moves coming out of the roof didn't take as much out of me as I thought but I misfired a few times on the last bump with the right hand as it's a bit blind. There's a ton of beta options for making it up the face with a variety of good interesting holds. At first I wanted to go more straight on and use the holds out right but getting tension with my right toe to make that happen seemed too difficult as there's not great footholds coming out of the lip. So I used the right heel hook beta which is a bit burly but satisfying! Found plenty of small intermediates to close the distance on the bigger moves as well. The starting hold was so moist when I arrived - I had to spent a lot of time brushing and drying it off. The top out was also a bit grimey - there's plenty to use but I recommend scoping it a bit first because it's hard to tell when you're up there.

June 19, 2026 A bit softer than I was expecting. The move to the lip was pretty easy with good foot placement. The hardest part for me was deciding how to hold the starting block and how to position my feet. Originally I was going to move left hand first but I settled on right hand so that the left could stay pulling on the jug start for longer.

June 19, 2026 First send at the Glen! This is a must-do for the grade - great features and movement with so many beta possibilities. I based my beta around wanting to use the great juggy sidepull out right that I don't see a lot of people using. This made it easier to grab the good part of the next crimp with my left hand, making the "big" move easier too. A nice toe hook helps to avoid some of the polished footholds!

lol

Dude, hell yeah. I've been suffering from double digit send withdrawal. That night I woke up at 5, couldn't go back to sleep, so I rolled out of bed having slept 4 hours. The previous day I slept 6 hours, interrupted after like an hour or 2, so pretty bad. I pulled this out of my ass. The two important microbeta was to hit the sloper crimp slightly more right than I think (don't just go all the way left to the crack), make sure your pinky is on. Then the holy grail was me switching from a right toe down with open hip to a twisting drop knee to get the sidepull. I was always better at this twisting, but assuming this move forced the open hips. I saw it done in person with the twist knee, and the moment I tried it, I knew I had it in the bag. It makes the top so much easier for me.

Idk if I started right. Guidebook says triangle hold? I just stand started.

Yes, High Difficult V0 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122451189/harold Right of Standard is another name? https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113378817/right-of-standard

Flashed. I don't think I did the right line? The true line sit starts further down left, but I was told that I started on the crimps. If you know what this is, let me know.

Asian Friends - 0:04 Back To His Future - 0:44 Balrog Battle - 1:06 - V7/8? Beef Baron* - 1:48 - very likely broke and has not been done since. **EDIT - done by Leo and Jacquie in 2025. Was more up the left side of the face than I had thought. Black Dragon - 2:03 Blazed - 2:39 Classified - 3:35 Contact SDS - 4:09 Diamond In The Rough - 4:53 Doughnut Munching Canadians - 6:50 Energy Crisis - 7:42 English Doodoo - 8:56 Floor Is Lava - 9:47 - Proposed V7 Full Moon Rising - 10:18 Girls Of Cheektowaga - 11:23 Gulag - 11:51 Happy Thoughts Dyno Variation - 12:21- Contrived (The) Honeymoon - 12:38 (The) Hunter - 32:16 Infected Mushroom Left - 13:09 Ivy League - 13:57 Kamikaze - 14:23 - Proposed V7 Krymptonite - 14:59 K9 Track Suit Low - 15:24 - (arête eliminate) Life O’Reilly SDS - 16:23 Low Rider - 16:57 Mangler* - 18:43 - very likely broke and has not been done since Mighty Mitges - 18:58 - V7/8 Mostly Harmless - 19:27 Nogoko - 20:21 - V6/7 Nothing Static - 21:03 No U-turn SDS - 21:34 Paste Low - 22:08 Peace and Love - 22:31 - V6/7? Pirates Of The Caribbean - 22:57 Previous Tapped - 23:52 - V6 (seems super sandbagged) / 7? Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDS - 24:31 Repet - 25:17 - V6/7 - contrived Rim-Job Arête - 25:57 - ***access affected by water level Royale With Cheese - 26:35 Rule of Thumb - 27:27 Shackled Babies - 28:02 Shadow Boxing - 29:14 Stickler - 29:54 - V6/maybe7? Stoking The Fire - 30:44 Supercell - 31:32 The Honeymoon - 12:38 The Hunter - 32:16 Total Compression - 32:51 - *Typically exits around the right side Trouble And Strife - 33:43 Undercover - 34:12 - Proposed V7 Under Direct Rule - 34:52 Vigilante Justice - 35:24 - V6/7 What Hands Can Grasp - 35:52 - V6/7 White Dragon - 36:43 - V7/maybe8+? Young Offender - 37:49 - Contrived start? Niagara Glen Bouldering V7 #climbing #bouldering #niagaraglen

Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock. Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience! Niagara Glen Bouldering The Phoenix | V11 (1:26) Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16) Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26) Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16) The Heat | V11 (9:48) As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right?? Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott Check out my website for: - Climbing Injury Consultations - Climbing Strength Assessments - Coaching and Programming https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/ #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

Follow me on Instagram: https://url-x.it/dvG5tLp For more info on the climb: https://sendage.com/climb/nothing-static-river-wall-niagara-glen-on-canada For the right side Exit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-Vce9zBvQc My website for climbing injury consultations and/or coaching: https://url-x.it/Q2r43jb Niagara Glen Bouldering

"Seppuku V10" at the Niagara Glen. I thought this would be my first V10 in one session, but it turned into a summer project over 5-6 sessions. I think I used some unique beta with the quarter pad mini pinch along with the right foot to move through the crux sequence. I liked that it made it much more static and stable, with less feet cuts than the usual beta. Thanks @joeysuster21 for the spots, along with everyone else I dragged up there over the last couple months 😂 @maggiez.z @sendit_tomars @jackczends #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #bouldering #niagaraglen

This is a video of Satay V1 from Niagara Glen. It's in the Old Country area, on the Stucco Boulders. There are 2 other easy climbs right next to it (Shoyu and Ponzu). This was the easiest climb of all 3, even though Ponzu is technically a V0. Climbing, Boulders, Niagara Glen

Video for my climb of Shoyu, a V1 in Niagara Glen (2 Star). This is in the Old Country area, on the Stucco Boulders. There are 2 other climbs right next to it (V1 Satay and V0 Ponzu). Shoyu was the hardest of the 3, but all of them are pretty easy, great for warming up, and super straightforward / fun climbs. Climbing, Boulder, Niagara Glen, Beta

The third in a series of videos about 30+ V4 boulders at the Niagara Glen. This most recent set includes six new ones from a two-day stop-over on my 2022 trip out west. This time I focused on "short and sweet" boulders (no highballs, no traverses, no bad landings) to protect my ankles. The 12 cm tear is holding stable on my right ankle, as are the screws in my left ankle. Our Niagara Glen V4 series featuring 30+ problems: Pt 1 - Some Classics - https://youtu.be/_ASSDaFR_XU Pt 2 - Beyond the Classics - https://youtu.be/gGDlJ9LTEl4 Pt 3 - Short and Sweet - https://youtu.be/T4Jg8wVJ6mM Pt 4 - Nine More V4s - https://youtu.be/bcNXeoxPc5g Intro (0:00) The 6ix V4- (0:11) - kneebar beta The Plot V4 (1:11) - very short (but nice) The Impressionist V4- (1:55) - easy (and nice) Immaculate V4 (2:22) - classic (but can be frustrating) Diablo V4 (2:55) - a bunch of V4s on this boulder Acronym V4 (3:44) Notes: 1. Top outs are now allowed on most boulders. 2. (-) indicates we felt the grade was a soft and (+) indicates we felt it was stiff. 3. Excellent betas for harder problems are at @boulderingbreakdown https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2neaoj-kSprnmmAoWyJLQg #niagaraglen #niagaraglenbouldering #bouldering #climbing #v4boulders #v4niagara #v4glen #allthev4s

Sick problem! Right arête is out after the jug where I do the heel hook. Location: Romper Room, Niagara Glen, Ontario, Canada. Font scale: 6B Thank you for watching and supporting 🙏 Now go send it!!! 🔥

Highly recommended that you warm up your right leg hammy with some Nordic curls before giving Gulag some real attempts!

In April 2021, when all the gyms where closed, we were getting our climbing fix by visiting niagara glen and climbing at the bizzaro region. We managed to send Necromancer, a climb newly added to the love boat boulder. It starts to the far right at the back of the cave on an undercling and good edge, where you work through slopers to connect back into the Orient Express starting edge and out to the same finish. Though that was the original intention for the route, we took a short cut and sent with a short person beta using the shallow crimp in the roof Maria's Send - 1:05 Ratul's Send - 1:56

On the same boulder as Framonda (v3) in the new guidebook. Right across from the Misfits boulder (Mighty Midges etc.) atop the tunnel. Start matched on low rail with a left heel hook, use a two finger pocket to get to a far RH undercling. Topout straight and to the left avoiding the Cedar

Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.

In the Neighborhood Left just behind Oral B to the right.

A small cave, climber’s right and apx. 15-20 steps downhill of Cocina. Look for the heart encircled peace sign scratched into the lip of of the cave that has become the namesake for this boulder. Sit start on a good incut RH crimp with a thumb-catch and LH on a small edge. Jam or toehook in the crack and throw to a good LH side-pull then proceed to topout straight up.

Really proud of this climb as it has eluded me for many months due to risk aversion with the final huge move out left - turns out I just needed to be I’m more confident in my right hand crimp pinching abilities!

The Glen - Niagara Falls Old Country - Georger Area Darlene - V4 Mostly raw footage of the approximate 20 minute process I went through to get the send on this problem. It was my first time trying it with no prior knowledge or having seen anyone on it before. Its only a V4 but its still neat to see the process that I went through from start to finish. What seems like obvious beta now was so blind to me at the beginning. I was definitely over complicating things and adding unnecessary moves. Im amazed at my muscle memory once I got it though. The end shows two different sends that looks nearly identical not only in physical movement but in my breathing as well. What started off as feeling super hard, became repeatable right away and I'm psyched on that! I had no plans for this to be a youtube video, I just kind of turned it into one. I'm gonna try uploading more consistently again, more so climbing related content. Some may be short send clips, edits or longer un cut raw videos. I'm not entirely sure but feedback is always welcome. Send footage @ 6:15 Let me know what you think in the comments below! Have you sent this problem yourself? If you liked this please give it a thumbs up and consider subscribing :)

Right hand variation of "Brave New World (V5)". One of the best climbs and locations in the glen. Crag: Niagara Glen, Ontario Canada Area: Land of Oz Date: August 2020 Personal Quality Rating: 5/5 My height: 6ft My ape index: ~ +1 Sponsors: - My parents

Over the past few years I have looked at this boulder every time I was close by and could never understand how to even start... Finally, I committed to giving a real effort to figure this thing out. I offer you: The Minimalist V6 - a classic glen sandbag? Let me know what you guys think FA: Andy Salo Start on the clean blank face of this boulder sitting. Pull off the ground using a left hand undercling and bad right sidepull. Fire to the mail slot and topout on big jugs. Make sure you are really sitting to start, otherwise its easier :) #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

My first v10! I grabbed the crux right hand hold with my front 2 fingers and thumb, and had to readjust to add my ring finger on before I could move off the left hand. #V10 #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #niagraglen

Let me know how you guys like the video! SHOW ME THE SEND: 5:00 Check out the new BB² climbing brush ! → FREE SHIPPING https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/shop Some more beta Ideas below "Red line" variation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yun5HYRS-EM First move left hand up (no heel): https://vimeo.com/167572484 First move right hand up: https://vimeo.com/152347813 Female: https://vimeo.com/166358467 Short: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0RTXPAMlmw Rigomortis Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9Kfn_wRYII #niagaraglen #bouldering #climbing

some more bouldering moderates at the Niagara Glen from early this year Maha v5 (0:04) Shadow Boxing v7 (0:37) Horseshack's Reprise v3 (1:36) Nothing Static v7 ( 2:48) Right of Standard v0 (3:15) The Pondering v5 (4:20) Ivy League v7/8 (5:01) Goldfinger v5 (5:52) Life O' Rielly v7 (6:55) Contact v7 (7:31) Pegasus v5 (8:20) Gillty Conscience v5 (9:11)

Closed Eye Visuals Right V7

Flesh Prince V7 is found on the right side of the Band Saw boulder upon entering Central from the descending stairs. Start under the bulge with two hands on the undercling, climb up using side pulls and bomb left to the crimp to top out using jugs.

Bonfire Rodeo Behind Imposso Right Behind Imposso Left Glue Babies Real Kung-Fu Massacre Stitches