Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruffneck | V7 | ⭐ | 5ft left of Orient. SDS on rounded sidepull edge/pinch for left, positive sidepull flake/edge for right. Move out overhang on sidepull edges, 2/3-finger pocket, & large gaston. Finish using 2-finger slot pocket & incut crack pinch. Heels are key. |
| Sharpshooter | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start with one hand low on an undercling and your other hand high on the ultra slick foot used for Super Sharpshooter and climb into Super Sharpshooter. |
| Stoking the Fire | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Starts on the slopey pocket pinch with your left hand and the low, left facing sidepull with your right. Move right across the lip and top out above "Milestones".
FA: Kai Malcolm - 2017 |
| The Flesh Prince | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner. Start at 2 underclings, climb bulge using crimps/sidepulls, & bomb for crimp up/left. TO big jugs. |
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. |
| Undercover | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start - down and to the right of 'Operation Pocket Change'. Hands start on either side of the arête. LH high on a big pocket. RH on a pocket side-pull. RH up to 2F pocket, LH to another 2F pocket, RH out to Cryptography start hold, stand up tall and go long up to a left slanting edge, hold the barn door, finish up and left on the lip, drop down. No Vegetated T/Os. 'Operation Pocket Change' jug rails way out left are eliminated.
FA: Dillon Elliot |
| Vigilante Justice | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS backside in overhang, left on fat pinch, right on bad crimp. Up overhang on cool slopers, rocket to jug at lip. TO left. |
| White Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right side on sharp undercling & blocky hold. Huge move to pocket at lip, & hit an intermediate to huck to another pocket on face. Head left traversing on pockets/edges through the bulge, TO near a dirty ledge. |
| Poo Tips 2 | V7- | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the undercling below the start jug for Orient Express. Climb left through the Rigormortis jug to finish as Ruffneck. |
| Contact | V6+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Right on Life's sloper, left on crimp. Up to sloper, gaston & small edge, grab jug left of edge & TO. |
| Energy Crisis | V6+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Delicatessan & the climb Pica. |
| Life O'Reilly | V6+ | ⭐ | Climb the face right of No U-Turn. TO. |
| My Upside-down Milkshake | V6+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Opposite Delicate. SDS on large pocket, up/left on small crimp, match sloping edge, fire to huge hole in boulder, exit hole. |
| Ripple Direct | V6+ | ⭐ | Climb direct start to ripple on sidepulls. |