Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Snafu | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS. Grab pocket-pinch & obvious 2-finger pocket down low. Up on 2 edges to sloping rail. Finish under the roof. |
| Speed bump | V4 | ⭐ | Far left side of boulder on large sidepull. Up on pinch & sidepull crimp to good edge, finish on jug left. |
| Squamish Simulator | V4 | - | Start on far right side on pinch & sloper. Traverse lip left using slopers to TO as for Tree Time. |
| Stickley's High step | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start on holds on arête directly next to the stairs. Cruise through the high step to the TO. |
| Super Flywall Traverse | V4 | ⭐ | Right to left traverse. Start on the arete and finish on the far left side. |
| TRIM | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 3' left of 101 Ways on rail--Dyno to hold on right at lip. |
| Terminal Velocity | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on ramp, reach high to sidepull pinch slot & bad 2-finger pocket. Bust for good edge. Bust for top. |
| The Birds Nest | V4 | ⭐ | Problem is on the far right of the boulder. SDS on undercling and side pull, move up right into the far right of the boulder to giant pinches, sloper, then a pocket, finish on jug at the top. |
| The Hammer | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on sharp thin flake & right on slopey sidepull. Up & slap right then aim left for seam. Work feet & follow the weakness. TO. |
| The Magic Bullet | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on a low sidepull & the left pocket. Move up to the right pocket, then to the lip. TO. |
| The Plot | V4 | - | SDS left on solid sidepull, right on really low sidepull. Keep throwing while working slightly left and TO. |
| The Shermanator | V4 | ⭐ | Far right side (left of arête). Right on crimp, left on sidepull. Traverse left staying low. Finish on Gill. |
| The Tombstone | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb white face. Start on jug on right arête, up to both arêtes & hug your way to TO. |
| Traverse | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start somewhere near X-files & traverse right to finish on Spectacles. |
| Turn That Frown Upside Down | V4 | - | SDS 1 ft left of “Grimey”. LH in hueco, RH in sidepull slot beside arête. Stay off arête, hit slopey V out left, work way to lip. TO. |