Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mr. Gnu's Gotta Problem | V3 | ⭐ | Sit start and move through a pair of square pinches before making devious moves to the vertical rail and topping out. |
| Mud Jug | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS in the middle of the boulder down low on crimps. Cruise right & across edges to the v-notch TO. |
| Mud Pies | V3 | - | Start on 2 pockets & climb the middle of the face. TO. |
| Mud Skipper | V3 | - | Climb the clean face avoiding the dihedrals on either side. |
| No Equalibrium | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on crimps &traverse left to right, working a series of fantastic ledges with superb 45' fall away. Mantle on last feature. |
| No Life... | V3 | ⭐ | SDS low left lip in cave at good holds. Hit lip and go up. |
| No trees about it | V3 | - | SDS right hand on arete, left hand undercling on overhang. slap the lip, mantle over stay off loose blocks out left. |
| One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest | V3 | ⭐ | To right of Confinement boulder is a triangular boulder cloaked on either side by vines. SDS in middle of face on incut jugs. A big dead point to good crimp, then hit arête, then a big jug out right & TO over the peak. |
| PFD (Personal Flotation Device) | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on large jugs. Move up to slopers, providing access to seam in middle of face. TO. |
| PP's Problem | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start at 3-finger pocket next to Semblance, crank through pockets to jug on top. |
| Paste | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Start in middle of boulder on an undercling & sharp sidepull pocket. Paste your feet on & pop for face holds. |
| Pete's Pinch | V3 | - | Start on right arête on improbable micro-edge & a pocket. Climb through the sidepull & 2 underclings to the top. |
| Pick Pocket | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on right side of fat ledge. Up to good slot, cross to good sidepull pocket. Out over bulge to pocket. TO. |
| Pocket Rocket | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS at awkward start on 2 pinch pockets (right) & a good pocket right of flake. Up on slopey pocket to top. |
| Pocket Traverse | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on right side of back face on huge hueco-like pockets. Traverse line of pockets left across face until you can move up to large vertical crack before big ramp. Move up to big ledges then finish. TO. |