Niagara Glen

Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.

Sources

  • The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
  • Numerous social media posts.

Disclaimer

Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.

Conditions

Dry
🌡️ 18.3°CView full conditions →

Routes

    Reset
    NameGrade ↓Star ratingDescription
    Girls of CheektowagaV7⭐⭐
    Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge
    GulagV7⭐
    Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart.
    Houlding PowerV7⭐⭐⭐
    SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful.
    Infected Mushroom LeftV7⭐⭐⭐⭐
    A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs.
    KamikazeV7-
    Start sitting at the base of the arête between 'cryptography' and 'classified'. LH starts high on a thin side-pull pinch on the left side of the arête, RH down low in a 2F pocket on the right side of the arête. Crank off the ground and bust way up and right to a RH undercling. Work up the arête to match and finish on good holds off to the right. The dismount is treacherous because of the rock behind/beneath you - be careful ! A true SDS or it's easier. Shorter climbers may need to slide an extra pad under to reach the LH start hold.
    KrymptoniteV7⭐
    Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket.
    Low RiderV7⭐⭐
    SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug.
    Mangler Jr.V7⭐⭐
    Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V.
    Mighty MitgesV7⭐⭐⭐⭐
    SDS on 2 big pockets. Go up right to small crimp. Crank up to left hand sidepull. Bust for the huge pocket.
    Mostly HarmlessV7⭐⭐⭐
    Start as for ‘Winter’, into ‘Stretch’ knob hold, right to sharp mono pocket & sloper with ¼ pad crimp. Reach up to sidepull finish for stretch.
    NogokoV7⭐⭐
    Start on large holds below prow. Cross right to pocket/pinch, left to edge, & then pull lip.
    Paste LowV7⭐⭐⭐
    Start matched on the sloped undercling for Paste, and climb straight up. FA: Emile Baril
    Real Kung-Fu Massacre SDSV7⭐⭐⭐
    SDS on adjacent rock, left on flat 3-finger chunk 4ft around left arête, right on 2-finger textured scoop on arête. Bust out right to blocky sidepull of kung fu, & tension out to incut. Finish as for the original. Var V? Left 2-finger scoop with good thumb lock & the horrible sloping foot hold to the right.
    RepetV7⭐
    SDS. Big footledge and match at positive hand hold. Start hitting sidepulls to lip and finish at handlebar.
    Rim-Job ArêteV7⭐⭐⭐⭐
    Same start as Amnesia but instead of toping out left follow the sloping arête & TO at the top.