Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruffneck | V7 | ⭐ | 5ft left of Orient. SDS on rounded sidepull edge/pinch for left, positive sidepull flake/edge for right. Move out overhang on sidepull edges, 2/3-finger pocket, & large gaston. Finish using 2-finger slot pocket & incut crack pinch. Heels are key. |
| The Flesh Prince | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner. Start at 2 underclings, climb bulge using crimps/sidepulls, & bomb for crimp up/left. TO big jugs. |
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. |
| Vigilante Justice | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS backside in overhang, left on fat pinch, right on bad crimp. Up overhang on cool slopers, rocket to jug at lip. TO left. |
| White Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right side on sharp undercling & blocky hold. Huge move to pocket at lip, & hit an intermediate to huck to another pocket on face. Head left traversing on pockets/edges through the bulge, TO near a dirty ledge. |