Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unnamed | V4 | - | SDS to right of Tree Time. Grab undercling of the right side. Then move into Tree time & TO. |
| Unnamed Left | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on obvious holds. Up and left on crimps and small horn-like feature. |
| Unnamed Right | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on obvious holds. Up and right on crimps/sidepulls. |
| Vole Power | V4 | ⭐ | SDS. Large rail on far right and crimps to go to lip crimp and sloper. TO. |
| Watch Your Melon | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on slab side 2 feet from a softball size scoop, match hand start on the lip of the slab. Heel hook softball scoop. Stay low and traverse left all the way around boulder back to the slab. Watch your head threw the cave! There is also a loose flake just before the cave, use the four finger pinch pocket above. Squeeze threw the cave, reach for the solid flakes. Work the fun overhung moves to the lip. Then around the corner to the blank looking face with a pocket in the centre and a slash at lip, after this it's jug city. |
| Wicked Witch of the West | V4 | - | SDS on underclings. Climb face up/left to sloper pocket to top. Var V6 Avoid holds NEAR seam. |
| X-Files | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on cool slopey edges right of Exlax. Up/right on cool edges. Finish jug is 4ft to right of start holds. |
| Y.A.P.P. | V4 | - | Start on back of boulder to right of arête on sidepull & pinch. Up to crazy move to slanting pocket. Up to mossy TO. |
| ...Around the corner | V3 | ⭐ | Sit on tall block with hands on positive lip holds, trend left then roll up right. |
| 2 Dollar Shoes | V3 | ⭐⭐ | On huge overhanging face. SDS on first right facing ledge to left gaston & up to knobby crimp. To top using pockets, incuts, & back steps. Do not top out. Variation is to dyno to jug from big edge left of the knob. |
| A Pocket Too Far | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for 'Walking...', keep low, go for good pocket out right, in to pocket pinch with left, to edges of 'Birthday Brew' - continue traversing right to decent sidepull - tricky move to pocket/crimp with left, up and right to large sidepull/ledge - finish on giant sloper ledge up to the right. |
| Absentine | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under obvious Hueco pocketed fin, climb the obvious natural line heading left and top out. Landing space is limited, and involves a nice slide down towards the river so be careful. |
| Adam's Virginity | V3 | - | Inch up under small roof. SDS, right on good rail, on right side of prow, left under roof on sloping rail. Slap your left hand up the front face using crimps & pockets. Grab the jug & pull up over lip. TO. |
| Art's Arête | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS far left side of boulder on short overhanging arête, left on extremely low sidepull, right on sloper. Throw to fat sloper on right, cruise to big holds on loose looking overhang. |
| Backstabber | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Same as Double, instead left to jug, up/right to TO. Var V2, SDS 4 feet right on some edges/sidepulls, climb up/left, end as for Backstabber. |