Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| The V Traverse | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on far left side on low pockets right of arête. Traverse right using line of pockets about 5-7ft up. Cross right dihedral to far right arête, pull right around onto mossy face (just before the moss) & reach for top ledge. |
| Thumbtack | V1 | - | SDS on the left side on the rock "seat". Use the four pockets & dyno to the top. |
| Tonsai Sunset | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Stand start on decent holds in the middle of the face. Climb direct and top out. |
| Tosca | V1 | ⭐ | Start on the left side of the face and climb the slab to top out. Not as high as its neighbours, but still high enough to make some climbers second guess themselves. |
| Tu as De Beaux Yeux | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb far right arête next to Eyes Wide Open. Finish on a horn before dropping down. |
| Twinkle Toes | V1 | - | Traverse front of boulder. Start at the downhill end, traverse entire face staying under the big jugs at the top. |
| Two Moves for Brother Crawfish | V1 | ⭐⭐ | SDS low on left side in slightly scooped out face. Balance moves to sloper. |
| Up da Middle | V1 | - | SDS on small pockets, move up to gaston & crimper, then to the TO. |
| Vegetarians Complain Too Much | V1 | - | SDS with back to Danzig on handrail. Move up to small crimp, sidepull & slopers to TO. |
| Voldemort | V1 | ⭐ | Start on the ledge, climb through the large sidepull rail, up to a big pocket and top out. |
| Walking Cuban in the Glen | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Backside of Cube, on far left arete. SDS on obvious holds, up arete to fist size crack just left of tree and TO on positive ledge |
| Who Needs Feet? | V1 | ⭐ | SDS left of Minimalist on jug. traverse lip on good jugs with bad feet (turning corner) until clean TO. |
| Women Hate Me | V1 | - | Left of Y.A.P.P. SDS on two sidepulls & climbs the arête. Use pockets & jugs to hug your way up. TO. |
| Zipper | V1 | - | Start on the far right side. Traverse low while moving left, use the tweaker pockets. Big jugs on top are taboo. |
| Awe | V0+ | - | On the right side of the back face. SDS on obvious holds. Move to ledge, dyno to the pocket above. |