Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| What Hands Can Grasp | V6+ | - | SDS in cleft, left on sloping rail, right low on large sidepull. Up/left to 2 opposing pinches, left on crimps to vertical slot. TO. |
| AlphaOmegaMan | V6 | ⭐ | SDS awkwardly on very grainy ledge. Pull into good ledge crimp above and make hard moves right to link into giant ledge in middle of boulder. Continue right to jugs and top out on slab right side. V3 Stand start for Alpha starts in middle of boulder at giant ledge and finish as for Alpha. |
| Amnesia | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at end nearest water under arête. Climb straight up the short arête & then slightly left too difficult TO. |
| Amores Perros | V6 | ⭐ | SDS left of Dogtooth, left on high obvious sidepull with thumb notch, right on lower sidepull. Up to small crimp, bust to sharp incut, top it out. |
| Black Magic | V6 | - | SDS at crimpy pinch & shallow pocket. Climb up sloping arch to jugs. No top out. |
| Bonfire Rodeo | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start left of center on flake. Up left to sloping edge & more sidepulls & edges to jugs on top of boulder. |
| Carpet Munching Diablos | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the blank face on the left side of the boulder. TO. |
| Chocolate Underpants | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in center of face, on large pocket and good edge. Big move up/right to sloping ledge, hand foot match start holds, and hit small crimper with left hand. cross to crimpy rail, and slap sloper with your left hand. Hit your rest jug about a foot above that, work up/right through a few crosses, and slopey gaston. hit good finger bucket about 5 feet from top, then go right to good clean pockets and TO around upper right hand side of boulder. |
| Crackhead | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS 15ft left of Peripheral on good incut rail. Left on good pockets, edges. Stay below lip to Pothead & finish. |
| Cryptography | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2 sidepull pockets. Up/right to ledge. Traverse up/left on crimps/pockets to large pocket. TO. |
| DeadFinger | V6 | ⭐⭐ | Start on finish of Right. Go up face using obvious crimp & crack sidepull. Up roof via crack, end on huge jug. |
| Dung Beetle Intercourse | V6 | - | Do Dung Beetle backwards down climbing the face opposite the start & walk off at the start jug. |
| Electric French Fries Sit | V6 | - | Same start as Electric French Fries, but sit start. |
| Epidermal Deficiency | V6 | - | Climb as per Climb De La Crimp but instead of going up at the crimps, cross into a sharp rail on the right, bump to razor sharp gaston and crank to mini ledge near the top.
FA: Scott Chuback |
| Escape Claus | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | This problem is on the sandstone cliff band about 15 ft down trail (upstream) from the obvious V0 arete. Start on the fin at the back of a small chest level roof. Reach out to a jug at the lip. Grab a funky crimp on the face, then 'escape' out left to the crack formed by a large detached block. Finish on jugs in the horizontal seam. |