Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rule of Thumb | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on pocket crimps. Up/right on small pocket crimps (chossy flakes off) to corner & up to perfect pinch. Hit lip, TO up & right. |
| Sandstone Roulette | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Novacane. Make big move left into rail, out to small horn. Left to starting holds of Anti Hero. Climb Anti Hero. Var V6/7 Start as for Novacane, left into suspect rail & continue to horn. Throw back into Novacane & finish. |
| Shadow Boxing | V9 | ⭐ | Start on flat 8-finger edge 4ft right of Gulag. Long move to get tiny left-facing sharp crimp sidepull, head up to sidepull flakes. Keep working up/left, resisting the urge to jump right into an adjacent problem. Finish over the lip on big holds. |
| Smoke the Dutchess (aka Gary's Roof) | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at base of big roof on jug. Up to left finger lock, crank to right undercling. Left slaps offset seam, right grabs more underclings. After sloper at lip, grab edge & reach way up to huge right facing sidepull. Stand up over lip to TO. |
| Tantric Shocker | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on arête, right in 4-finger pocket. Left to crimp on arête, shoot to Shocker pocket. Finish Shocker. Var V9 Finish on Felcher |
| The Real Bruce Lee | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start crouched right of Kung fu, left low on bad sloper, right high on better sloper. Climb up face on slopey crimps, big move to V-notch. After that, big sidepulls to TO. Arête off. |
| Dead Stuff | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS 6ft right of Right Stuff large incut ledges. Left to Right Stuff. Climb El Guapo. |
| Elephant House Roof | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on sculpted jug. Move to lip & surmount with difficulty. TO above good arête like jug. |
| Infected Mushroom | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Chain Reaction, head left to Krymptonite finish. Hit sloping ledge out right & straight up to large side pull. TO. |
| Raserie | V8+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start directly to the left of CN on a big slopy pinch rail & hold your chest parallel to the ground, put your feet up near the starting holds on CN and work your way up the rail pulling in with your arms and pushing out with your feet. Set up on 2 crimps and throw out to the starting on Novacane. Finish as per Novacane. Finish as per Sandstone Rullet future V10/11? |
| Bagging Loose Tea | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Left of Anklet's finish is a set of opposing sidepulls, one being very sharp. Start on these to a gaston under the overhang. Climb straight out the overhang on big moves. TO. Mind the impaling tree stump. |
| Big Mac Deal wis Beer | V8 | - | SDS 2m left of Royal on 2 large pockets, out roof on long pulls to pocket at lip, heel hook & slap your way up face. |
| Bilingual | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Start as Asian Friends, climb into Trouble and Strife. |
| Bob's Balancing Balls | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Stitches, through campussy section. Ends with Gary's Dyno. C-shape problem. |
| Chain Reaction | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS underneath bulge, left on incut, right on pinch. Do huge move to Eye Candy start, climb Eye Candy. |