Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rite of Passage Low | V13 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb into the stand start of Rite of Passage.
FA: Ethan Salvo |
| Karasu | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Low start to the Phoenix: Start on a flat rail down and right of the Phoenix start. Core up and throw to the jug, then move into the Phoenix. FA was thought to be Kaito Watanabe, but it was later revealed that Jeremy Smith got the FA in the early 2000s. |
| Rite of Passage | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | The infamous stairwell project, once the longest standing project in the Glen. Stand start under the overhang with sloping right edge and right hand on a side pull pocket at head height. Move through edges and sloping ledges to a large dyno to a small incut crimp and top out over the stairs.
FA: Ethan Salvo |
| Zozobra | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on left side of face. left hand undercling, and right hand flat edge. Work up and slightly right through the succession of right hand, left hand moves, with sequential feet, till you reach a finger bucket and a good edge. Big move up to left leaning slash in the upper face, match and top out on good jugs. |
| From Coal and Ashes | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | TBD |
| The Crucifix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | 2 meters left of Phoenix at same height. Start on 2 underclings. Use crimps & flat holds to go up & right. A huge iron cross move takes you to a pocket at the lip of the bulge. Cross over into jug & TO just to the left of phoenix top out. |
| The Gunt | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on sharp crimps, out on nasty slopers to 2 pinches at lip. Big move to sloping edge, then TO onto shelf. |
| The Phoenix | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start low in middle of cave matched on left facing scooped edge. Work up/right on underclings, flat slaps & pinches. TO to the left of the Captain Hook start holds. |
| Young Thugs | V11 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb into Young Offender. FA Ethan Salvo. |
| Threat Level Midnight | V11- | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb "Karasu" into "Black Eagle". |
| A Cry For Deliverance | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on small crimp sidepull, right on slopey sidepull. Up sidepulls to Cocina, climb Cocina. |
| BFF | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on big pocket about 6ft to the right of bonfire's start. Use a high foot and bust left to a good sidepull, swing your feet left and do some crazy footwork to gain a big (kinda flat) undercling, mess with your feet, bump to a sloper with your left, use another undercling with your right hand, and work your way into bonfire and finish it. kinda sneaky footwork, but Great Great problem. Enjoy |
| Bagging Loose Tea Sit | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start low on Bagging Loose Tea matched on the crimpy edge. |
| Closed Eye Visuals | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right side. SDS at good pocket crimps, cross right hand to pocket & up on pockets & small crimps to very cool pocket pinch, throw to good horizontal rail. Traverse left & finish on incut jug. Var V7 Same start but with left hand, bust right to flat edges, bump left hand into pockets & finish CEV. |
| Dualism | V10 | ⭐ | Start between 2 problems, crouching, right on low very slopey pocket & left on sidepull. Straight up on sidepulls/crimps to twin monos in middle of upper face, followed by another 2 finger pocket just below top. TO. Var V7 Start standing as high as you can reach. Finish the same. |