Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. |
| Stiletto | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.
FA: Jake Tiger |
| Super Hero | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Comfortably Numb. Do the undercling moves of C.N., then at the start of Novacane , do Sandstone Roulette |
| Who Run Tings | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS low & left on a perfect jug. Move up/right on sidepulls to a hard scary TO. |
| Zozobra Sit | V10 | - | Sit start to Zozobra |
| Black Eagle | V9+ | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on Phoenix, make move into first hold of phoenix with right hand, start heading left, crank through- find some flat underclings on roof with lefty, get your feet in your face make some big slap moves with your right followed by big double-up to sharp v-notched pocket. Huck to finish on Crucifix |
| English Voodoo | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on pinch, right on crimp, up/out steep arête. Long moves at end of arête & turning lip. TO. |
| Epiphany | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start on sharp black 2-handed jug. Straight out roof on thuggish gastons, pockets & pinches. Stab a deep slot in headwall & campus up to jug, straight above. TO on gigantic holds. |
| Fear of a Toothed Vagina | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Left side of boulder on steep face. SDS low on 2 pockets; move up/right on pockets/underclings. Sharp! TO. |
| Ivy League | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Around corner left of Maha. Start on 2 flat crimps. Throw heel high/left. Reach up to pocket crimps & bust it up to ledge. TO. |
| Ko-Chi-Minh-Trail | V9 | ⭐⭐ | Start middle of boulder, right on gaston, left on right leaning crimp. Up/right to sharp left leaning crimp. Work way up on few bad holds to eventually make a toss to the good edge just before the top of the boulder. TO. |
| Necromancer | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Starts on jugs on the righthand side of the cave. Move through slopers and edges, and make a big move to the pocket at the lip. Finish as Orient Express. |
| Razor Wire Education | V9 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under Maha on 2-handed jug. Stab gaston in crack, lock off & cross to sloper over lip. Throw to start of Maha, climb Maha. |
| Riff Raff | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Climb huge overhanging prow starting on sidepull rails. Slap up the rails, eventually hooking the middle rail and continue up to TO (messy) up and right. The landing is ok if well padded. |
| Rodeo Clown | V9 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right under Bonfire. Right on hidden pinch, left on big sidepull. Dyno to big 3-finger jug, finish Bonfire. |