Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| One Inch Punch | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Right of Mangler. SDS, left on sidepull crimp, right near base of mini arête. Slap up right mini-arête. Finish as for 'Mangler'. |
| Orient Express | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on scoop pocket. Out overhang on edges, shoot to lip pockets. Finish up/right on large edges. |
| Peewee | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right of Sibishi. Left on sidepull flake just right of undercling pocket. Right on crimpy sidepull low out right (looks like an ear). Fall back onto sidepull near your face, throw for long crimp edge. Match & finish as for Sibishi. |
| Peripheral Vision | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Overhung dihedral. SDS, right on non-existent crimp, left on small pocket. Climb dihedral. TO. |
| Personal Vendetta | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at 2 big opposing sidepulls, left same as Blazed. Up/left on sidepull slots. Cross to right hand pinch/gaston. Rock over to pockets and slots around bulge. TO using jugs. |
| Sexual Inadequacy | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Snakes Eyes, straight up to crimpy pinch & bust left to crimp & up arete. TO. |
| Snake Eyes | V8 | ⭐ | SDS on right arête at an awkward rail. Move left through large pocket to slopers & up the arête. TO. |
| Sweet Peaness | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on low rail and move up and right to a sloping pocket. Mantle the top as per Misfit Mantle |
| The Embryo | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start to The Egg.
FA: Tomasz Wojtkowiak |
| The Honeymoon | V8 | - | SDS in horiz crack at back of roof. Go to lip. Use edges, crimps, slopers & arête to reach jugs. |
| Trouble and Strife | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of Help from... on 2 slopers on bulge. Left heel on rail of Help... Bust up to side pull, then sloper (both with left hand) then up. |
| At Death's Door | V8- | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of "Death Trap", and left of "Brave New World". Sit matched on chossy rail, up RH to a thin block pinch, LH out L to a side-pull, then LH up again to a high crimp, climb into "Brave New World" holds, and finish on the jug horn of "Doors of Perception".
FA: Dillon Elliott |
| Life O'Reilly Sit | V7+ | - | Same start as Life O'Reilly, but sit start. |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. |
| Anti Hero | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start at lip left of Novacane on blocky pinch & crimp, campus to sharp edge above, finish on huge slot/rail above. |