Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Karn Evil 9 | V5 | ⭐ | Begin as for Gillronamoe, move left at the slopey block. Continue to the TO. |
| Maha | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on left side on large sloping jug. Traverse right on small crimps & slopers to TO on right side of boulder. |
| Manboy Luck | V5 | - | SDS far left side of boulder on obvious large jug. Out right to mono, cross up to hidden pocket in sloper then up right onto arête, rail follow arête to right and TO. Skip nice looking pinch under the arête in middle, it's loose. |
| Midget Madness | V5 | ⭐ | SDS low on the overhanging arête closest to the water. Move up to the huge sloper, & mantle. |
| Milestones | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on some low holds, throw to sharp left hand knob & SMALL crimp. Through hand rail & do "stand up" TO. |
| Misfit Mantle | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at large rail and move to lip then follow featured lip to mantle at far right side. Variation;mantle early off of crimps[V3] TO. |
| Mr. Armageddon | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do Delicatessen then from the big undercling DOUBLE-DYNO to the big sloppy ledge. |
| Neolithic | V5 | ⭐⭐ | On the left side of this boulder a blunt arête features some kind slopers. Slap these to a pleasing TO. |
| Novocane | V5 | ⭐⭐ | SDS far right of cave on sharp 2 sided flake jug. Crank into crack/seam & out to end. Chuck for jug ledge up left. |
| Oral-B | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Illustrious, from pinches head right to undercling & work to right of bulge using small crimps. TO bulge. |
| Peg Leg | V5 | ⭐ | SDS same as Little Tree except head up & left biting pockets, finish on Mullet Attack. |
| Pica | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start in the cave on the double undercling block. Move right around the corner; follow the seam to the top. |
| Piercing Joe Valentine | V5 | - | SDS on flat jug. Throw left up to sloping crimp & then right up. Crank straight up. |
| Pork Chop | V5 | - | Climb the face to the right of the flake system following the bolt line but DO NOT USE A ROPE. |
| Pothead | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐ | 3ft left of 2 dollar on right facing ledge. Reach up to knob, then up/left to slopey block. Dyno to finish jug. TO. |