Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Great Wall of China | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start way to the left. Traverse right, the entire boulder. Stay below large holds above your head. |
| The Impressionist | V5 | ⭐ | SDS right of Minimalist on good crimps. Fire up to good holds, continue to clean TO, same as ‘Feet’. |
| The Little Illustrious | V5 | - | Sit start way to the right on low edges. Climb left to the huge shelf and then up and over the bulge to finish on the same chossy ledge as Oral B. |
| The Pondering | V5 | - | Start on low obvious holds & climb arête. TO. |
| Therapist | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Far right side of boulder is small overhung dihedral. SDS, work up staying off arête & do standup TO. |
| Thunder and Lightning | V5 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the pockets. Lunge to the monster slopers then up right to an edge. Finish on top. |
| Tractorbeam Traverse | V5 | ⭐ | Start on far left backside. Traverse right, entire lip of boulder. Mantle using slot & 2-finger pocket. |
| Trillibyte | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start on far right side of boulder. Traverse left under obvious crimp ledge. Finish as for Anklet. |
| Underklingons | V5 | - | SDS left of Piercing on underclings. Crank to set of pinches to gain sharp flakes out left, up to bushy top. |
| Unnamed Pockets | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Who Run Tings, straight up to small 2-finger pocket & long reach to slopey TO. |
| Windy City | V5 | - | Start down low on the ledge & pocket. Traverse up & left to the top. (SDS V6) |
| Young Offender | V5 | ⭐⭐ | Right side of boulder. Left sidepulling pockety stuff, right on crimp sidepull, up to undercling with thumb hole, straight up to TO. |
| An Empty Place | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Losing, head right on low pocket then cross above to pocket. Pull lip on pockets/edges. TO. |
| Bewareandrun | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | Climb Higher Ground, but follow the large side pull flake system trending left all the way to the top of the boulder. |
| Bottlerocket | V4+ | - | This problem is right of A. heel opposite the tree. Match on sharp plate. Use slopers to get a good pocket. Topout on pockets and edges. |