Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↓ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dead Man Traverse | V4+ | - | SDS in little cave that is formed by the morgue on the far right arete. traverse left and around the corner to the spearhead looking side. |
| Glue Babies | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | Side down start, lefthand crimp, righthand pocket. Up/left on small pockets/edges, to lefthand gaston and small righthand crimp, slap a good sloper around arête. Finish on jug. |
| Hector's Toehook | V4+ | - | Same start as achilles at the second jug bust right to some slopers and work out to good triangular pinch then topout. |
| High Times | V4+ | - | Around corner. Sit start on the sloping ledge and jug sidepull. Up to the pocket, to the obvious flake. Small pockets and crimps to top left corner. Top out to the right |
| K8 | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | 3ft left of K9. SDS, left on big sidepull, right on flaky pinch. Left to crimp, right to pocket crimp, left up to crimp, hit left finishing slope of K9 & TO over higher left side. |
| Serpentine | V4+ | - | SDS on right arête with 2 crimps. Ramp is off. Up on undercling, huge pockets & slopers to big vertical jug. |
| The O-Ring | V4+ | ⭐⭐ | On boulder to left, on sharp, steep arête. SS on slopey pinch & sidepull crimp. Up on sidepulls & slopey pocket, bomb for ring at lip. Drop – do not top out. Do not exit left. |
| 1492 | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Middle. SDS, LH on sidepull, RH on sidepull down low. Up on couple of lousy holds for each hand to 3-finger pocket in middle of face. Grab horn. |
| 4 Star Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under the right arête. Slap the sides to the top. TO. |
| 8" of Pure Gaston | V4 | - | Same start as seam-in. Use holds on overhang only. Same topout. Has a nice balancey move to get to the face. Also a nice gaston and pinch. |
| Action Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2/3-finger pockets on left arête. Using left sidepull, cruise up to 1/2-finger pocket, right to ledge & finish. (Big pockets right/left out). |
| All Aboard | V4 | - | Start on right side in small pockets. Traverse entire face. Stay low avoiding big jugs on top. |
| Backstroke | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at bottom of arête, left on large ledge, right on arête. Climb arête until you reach peak. TO. |
| Baguette | V4 | ⭐ | Stand start in the middle of the face, climb straight up and top out. |
| Balance | V4 | ⭐ | Climb up the center of the back face. TO. (Around the right corner from No U-Turn). |