Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Balrog Battle | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right across the path of the Misfits boulder (mighty midges, etc) an overhang facing the river view atop the tunnel path. Start seated matched on low rail. Topout. FA Jake Tiger. |
| Beef Baron | V7 | - | Start on the bottom left side. After the first undercling pocket climb small crimps to the TO |
| Blazed | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS, left on big & slopey sidepull, right on small & crimpy sidepull. Cross into a small pocket, & work into Pothead. |
| Celebrex | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the arete on the bottom left side of the boulder. Move out under the steep section to continue climbing to the top. |
| Classified | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | In middle of overhanging prow. Starts on 2 good slot pockets, TO using undercling pocket & crimps. |
| Comfortably Numb | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Underneath Novacane on lowest of flat underclings (river on right). Slap your way out underclings & link Novacane. |
| Diamond in the Rough | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS on holds on middle of right face. Traverse lip of roof. Finish on huge jugs after 2nd corner. |
| FA Glory | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on jug in birth canal, move left to good undercling follow obvious crimp line to jug then dirty TO right. Var V8 SDS on 2 low crimps. Var V9 Climb Upside-down milkshake & link. |
| Full Moon Rising | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Gillty. Climb up in black streak on mostly sidepulls. Trend up/right to TO. |
| Girls of Cheektowaga | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge |
| Gulag | V7 | ⭐ | Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart. |
| Houlding Power | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful. |
| Infected Mushroom Left | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs. |
| Krymptonite | V7 | ⭐ | Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket. |
| Low Rider | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug. |