Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Karasu | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Low start to the Phoenix: Start on a flat rail down and right of the Phoenix start. Core up and throw to the jug, then move into the Phoenix. FA was thought to be Kaito Watanabe, but it was later revealed that Jeremy Smith got the FA in the early 2000s. |
| Metamorphosis Low | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start at the very left of the cave on the pinch (same start as Phoenix From The Ashes) and climb into Black Eagle.
FA: Ethan Salvo |
| Rite of Passage | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | The infamous stairwell project, once the longest standing project in the Glen. Stand start under the overhang with sloping right edge and right hand on a side pull pocket at head height. Move through edges and sloping ledges to a large dyno to a small incut crimp and top out over the stairs.
FA: Ethan Salvo |
| Zozobra | V12 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on left side of face. left hand undercling, and right hand flat edge. Work up and slightly right through the succession of right hand, left hand moves, with sequential feet, till you reach a finger bucket and a good edge. Big move up to left leaning slash in the upper face, match and top out on good jugs. |
| Rite of Passage Low | V13 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start and climb into the stand start of Rite of Passage.
FA: Ethan Salvo |
| The Wheel of Bonfire | V13 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Do Dazed and Confused to the start jug of BFF, then turn around and do BFF. |
| Vilified | V13 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Obvious start, striking line. |
| Jigai | V14 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on the obvious jug and go straight up the face, powerful crux jump into sustained and scary/technical top gaining the lip for a glory slab topout.
FA: Dawson Shepherd |