Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rail Direct | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS directly under the rail at the pocket & small flake. Move up through the big pockets to the rail & TO.o |
| Rail Slide | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Start on overhanging face, up pockets to long vertical slot to TO. Var V2 move left & up staying out of slot. |
| Rainbow Warrior | V2 | - | SDS Downstream arete to crimps and slopers. TO. |
| Razer's Edge | V2 | - | SDS on low obvious holds, nail 2 sidepulls & throw for razor hold on top. |
| Red Dye #5 | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Climb the slab left of the big flake. Just get on the thing & stand up. |
| Right of Arête | V2 | - | Climb the chossy blocky face right around the corner of Josh's Highball. Not recommended. |
| Root Canal | V2 | - | SDS 3 feet right of Stretch on underclings. Up to sidepull - shoot for giant sharp pocket. TO. |
| Rubber Band | V2 | - | Stand start on a ledge and slopey pocket. Traverse around the face into a big ledge flake and top out. |
| Scardy Cat | V2 | - | Climb the crack to the flaring V-notch in the middle of the main face. TO. |
| Second Thoughts | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under the overhang on the right hand side, crank to the top through laybacks & ledges. |
| Shades | V2 | ⭐ | SDS under large slopey rail on obvious 2-hand sidepull. Up to rail & then small crimp. Finish on dueling giant pockets. Var V3 Don't use 'pinch flake' at top of mini dihedral. |
| Side-Show Betty | V2 | ⭐ | Start with left shoulder kissing tree and hands on horizontal pocket and pinch. Straight up the corner and over. |
| Slingshot | V2 | ⭐ | SDS, left on sharp undercling, right on high hold. Bump up then nice crimp over blunt hang, throw to huge ledge. |
| Somethin' for Nothin' | V2 | ⭐⭐ | SDS in middle of face in crystallized pocket. Traverse left to good ledges, jump to bucket up left. TO. |
| Sonny Boy | V2 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | This highball can be found on a boulder just uphill from Pork Chop. Start with one hand on either side of the triangular protrusion and climb the vertical face, topping out at the peak. To access the top or to get down, there is a cool little tunnel to the left of the boulder. 25ft.
Sonny Boy was an elderly turtle that survived a trip over The Falls in a barrel, in 1930. His owner perished in the stunt. He was later stolen and a high speed chase ensued to get him back. |