Niagara Glen

Face away from 'Epiphany', looking downhill and slightly to the right. This problem is in the middle of the face of a long short arching boulder that is about 35º overhung. SDS in a pit between two rocks matched on an undercling that is positive but angled awkwardly. Go straight up using a perfect sloping edge, crimps, and/or side-pulls. Snag the lip and T/O.

Start as for Gillty. Climb up in black streak on mostly sidepulls. Trend up/right to TO.

Start on slot/pocket & small edge at left side of back face. Up on small edges/pocket to huge ledge

Start next to X-Files on crimp & sidepull. Move to left hand pocket & sloper & top out on lousy jug. Var V7/8 Start left of Fart & throw to pocket w/ right hand & finish as for Fart.

SS left of Green & right of Furray at large undercling, right on sidepull. Stay right of big rock scar formerly known as Furry. Up on crimps, pinches, to 3 black jugs at slopey triangular pinch then TO. 3 black jugs are suspect, be careful.

A common variation of Infected Mushroom that traverses left and up from the triangle notch and ends by topping out on jugs.

Start sitting at the base of the arête between 'cryptography' and 'classified'. LH starts high on a thin side-pull pinch on the left side of the arête, RH down low in a 2F pocket on the right side of the arête. Crank off the ground and bust way up and right to a RH undercling. Work up the arête to match and finish on good holds off to the right. The dismount is treacherous because of the rock behind/beneath you - be careful ! A true SDS or it's easier. Shorter climbers may need to slide an extra pad under to reach the LH start hold.

Far left side of boulder. SDS on crimps, up on slopers, crimps (not using the crack) Finish on triangle bucket.

SDS right of problems on large block, down right from pair of pockets. Traverse low, left to arête and up to jug.

Same as for Sr. except avoid Mangler crimp, instead throw from lower down to lip near point of inverted V.

SDS on 2 big pockets. Go up right to small crimp. Crank up to left hand sidepull. Bust for the huge pocket.

Start as for ‘Winter’, into ‘Stretch’ knob hold, right to sharp mono pocket & sloper with ¼ pad crimp. Reach up to sidepull finish for stretch.

Start on large holds below prow. Cross right to pocket/pinch, left to edge, & then pull lip.

Start matched on the sloped undercling for Paste, and climb straight up. FA: Emile Baril

SDS on adjacent rock, left on flat 3-finger chunk 4ft around left arête, right on 2-finger textured scoop on arête. Bust out right to blocky sidepull of kung fu, & tension out to incut. Finish as for the original. Var V? Left 2-finger scoop with good thumb lock & the horrible sloping foot hold to the right.