Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Twinkle Toes | V1 | - | Traverse front of boulder. Start at the downhill end, traverse entire face staying under the big jugs at the top. |
| Two Moves for Brother Crawfish | V1 | ⭐⭐ | SDS low on left side in slightly scooped out face. Balance moves to sloper. |
| Up da Middle | V1 | - | SDS on small pockets, move up to gaston & crimper, then to the TO. |
| Vegetarians Complain Too Much | V1 | - | SDS with back to Danzig on handrail. Move up to small crimp, sidepull & slopers to TO. |
| Walking Cuban in the Glen | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Backside of Cube, on far left arete. SDS on obvious holds, up arete to fist size crack just left of tree and TO on positive ledge |
| Who Needs Feet? | V1 | ⭐ | SDS left of Minimalist on jug. traverse lip on good jugs with bad feet (turning corner) until clean TO. |
| Women Hate Me | V1 | - | Left of Y.A.P.P. SDS on two sidepulls & climbs the arête. Use pockets & jugs to hug your way up. TO. |
| Zipper | V1 | - | Start on the far right side. Traverse low while moving left, use the tweaker pockets. Big jugs on top are taboo. |
| A Climb Called Ott | V2 | - | Start just left of Spectacles. Climb through the hollow looking flake & pockets to the big bucket. |
| Afterthought | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Hidden around corner from other problems is a mini-cave with a huge flake system coming out of it. SDS in system & monkey out that to lip, then head up & right to the fun TO. |
| Alpha Direct | V2 | - | Stand start middle of boulder on giant ledge, top out straight up. |
| Bent Tree | V2 | - | Walk between 2 boulders you’ll see a bent tree. SDS 2 feet left of bent tree. 2h start on slanted crimp on the lip at belly height. Climb straight up TO |
| Betty Boop | V2 | ⭐ | Start on the far right of the boulder. Traverse the face & go around the corner & up to the TO. |
| Bo Derek, aka: Bolero | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Grab the big ledge on left side of the wall; move diagonally up & left around the big bulge. TO. |
| CIA | V2 | ⭐ | SDS low on rail in middle of face. Crank up to flake & cruise up to TO. |