Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stoking the Fire | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Starts on the slopey pocket pinch with your left hand and the low, left facing sidepull with your right. Move right across the lip and top out above "Milestones".
FA: Kai Malcolm - 2017 |
| The Flesh Prince | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Around corner. Start at 2 underclings, climb bulge using crimps/sidepulls, & bomb for crimp up/left. TO big jugs. |
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. |
| Undercover | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start - down and to the right of 'Operation Pocket Change'. Hands start on either side of the arête. LH high on a big pocket. RH on a pocket side-pull. RH up to 2F pocket, LH to another 2F pocket, RH out to Cryptography start hold, stand up tall and go long up to a left slanting edge, hold the barn door, finish up and left on the lip, drop down. No Vegetated T/Os. 'Operation Pocket Change' jug rails way out left are eliminated.
FA: Dillon Elliot |
| Vigilante Justice | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS backside in overhang, left on fat pinch, right on bad crimp. Up overhang on cool slopers, rocket to jug at lip. TO left. |
| White Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right side on sharp undercling & blocky hold. Huge move to pocket at lip, & hit an intermediate to huck to another pocket on face. Head left traversing on pockets/edges through the bulge, TO near a dirty ledge. |
| Life O'Reilly Sit | V7+ | - | Same start as Life O'Reilly, but sit start. |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. |
| At Death's Door | V8- | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start right of "Death Trap", and left of "Brave New World". Sit matched on chossy rail, up RH to a thin block pinch, LH out L to a side-pull, then LH up again to a high crimp, climb into "Brave New World" holds, and finish on the jug horn of "Doors of Perception".
FA: Dillon Elliott |
| Bagging Loose Tea | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Left of Anklet's finish is a set of opposing sidepulls, one being very sharp. Start on these to a gaston under the overhang. Climb straight out the overhang on big moves. TO. Mind the impaling tree stump. |
| Big Mac Deal wis Beer | V8 | - | SDS 2m left of Royal on 2 large pockets, out roof on long pulls to pocket at lip, heel hook & slap your way up face. |
| Bilingual | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Start as Asian Friends, climb into Trouble and Strife. |
| Bob's Balancing Balls | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Stitches, through campussy section. Ends with Gary's Dyno. C-shape problem. |
| Chain Reaction | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS underneath bulge, left on incut, right on pinch. Do huge move to Eye Candy start, climb Eye Candy. |