Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| blue dye 69 | V2 | - | SDS on left arete, LH on stucco side, right on jug. up to rail right of arete. to crimp, stay off arete, very loose blocks. go though middle to jug TO. |
| ...Around the corner | V3 | ⭐ | Sit on tall block with hands on positive lip holds, trend left then roll up right. |
| 2 Dollar Shoes | V3 | ⭐⭐ | On huge overhanging face. SDS on first right facing ledge to left gaston & up to knobby crimp. To top using pockets, incuts, & back steps. Do not top out. Variation is to dyno to jug from big edge left of the knob. |
| A Pocket Too Far | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for 'Walking...', keep low, go for good pocket out right, in to pocket pinch with left, to edges of 'Birthday Brew' - continue traversing right to decent sidepull - tricky move to pocket/crimp with left, up and right to large sidepull/ledge - finish on giant sloper ledge up to the right. |
| Absentine | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under obvious Hueco pocketed fin, climb the obvious natural line heading left and top out. Landing space is limited, and involves a nice slide down towards the river so be careful. |
| Adam's Virginity | V3 | - | Inch up under small roof. SDS, right on good rail, on right side of prow, left under roof on sloping rail. Slap your left hand up the front face using crimps & pockets. Grab the jug & pull up over lip. TO. |
| Art's Arête | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS far left side of boulder on short overhanging arête, left on extremely low sidepull, right on sloper. Throw to fat sloper on right, cruise to big holds on loose looking overhang. |
| Backstabber | V3 | ⭐⭐ | Same as Double, instead left to jug, up/right to TO. Var V2, SDS 4 feet right on some edges/sidepulls, climb up/left, end as for Backstabber. |
| Bad Rootbeer | V3 | - | SDS 2 ft left of hueco, LH on slopey block, RH on slopey sidepull (under slopey block). RF toehook under hueco, LF under hang, pull to V of last problem. throw to jug TO. |
| Beast Man | V3 | ⭐ | SDS 3ft left of right side of boulder on big sidepull/undercling, to inverted v pinch & micro pockets to top jug. TO. |
| Blow Chicks Clothes Off | V3 | ⭐ | Start at 2 side pulls chest high. Move to jug. Use intermediate & move to blocky crimp do long lock off move to jugs. TO. SDS V4 |
| Chuu! | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start on a right incut crimp & left ledge. Move up and to the left, cutting through the crimps in the middle of Pica, & hit the closer left side pull. Toss up to the high right side pull & finish on the flakey jug to the left. Watch for the dab on the pad at the start! The left arete, including the closer flakes, are out. |
| City Under the Sea | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right side on obvious jug, & heel hook. Traverse lip of roof on slopers, staying off top edge of boulder, until you can shoot under roof for left hand edge. Go for jug on left & TO on the point of the roof. |
| Cool | V3 | - | SDS low on 2-finger pocket/knob & edge. Move through edges to the TO staying left of the arête. |
| Dad's Day Out | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Plumbers Crack underneath the roof on the obvious holds. Crank out to the face & over the lip. TO |