Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Cry For Deliverance | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left on small crimp sidepull, right on slopey sidepull. Up sidepulls to Cocina, climb Cocina. |
| BFF | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start on big pocket about 6ft to the right of bonfire's start. Use a high foot and bust left to a good sidepull, swing your feet left and do some crazy footwork to gain a big (kinda flat) undercling, mess with your feet, bump to a sloper with your left, use another undercling with your right hand, and work your way into bonfire and finish it. kinda sneaky footwork, but Great Great problem. Enjoy |
| Bagging Loose Tea Sit | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start low on Bagging Loose Tea matched on the crimpy edge. |
| Closed Eye Visuals | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Right side. SDS at good pocket crimps, cross right hand to pocket & up on pockets & small crimps to very cool pocket pinch, throw to good horizontal rail. Traverse left & finish on incut jug. Var V7 Same start but with left hand, bust right to flat edges, bump left hand into pockets & finish CEV. |
| Dualism | V10 | ⭐ | Start between 2 problems, crouching, right on low very slopey pocket & left on sidepull. Straight up on sidepulls/crimps to twin monos in middle of upper face, followed by another 2 finger pocket just below top. TO. Var V7 Start standing as high as you can reach. Finish the same. |
| Eye Candy Extension | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start as Bagging Loose Tea Extension and instead of climbing into Bagging Loose Tea, traverse into Eye candy.
AKA TTC. |
| Funk-Shwey | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS as for Gary’s Roof; up to pinch in crack. Throw to flat wall, build feet to gain lip & crank slopers to TO. |
| Help from my wife and friends | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS LH on arête, RH on micro. Bust to slopey rail, up to small crimps. Up to LH small dish. RH goes up to SICK sloper (with thumb catch) then bust left hand to jug. If you start on rail then V9. |
| Old Man Gillronamoe | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS on pile of rock in middle of face. Find a good incut crimp for left and a good three finger undercling for right, both about waist/ chest high. Work up and slightly right through a crimp, sidepull and a good pocket. BIG move straight up to a gaston. Work over left to the slash in the upper face of the boulder. TO on jugs. |
| Razorblade Rodeo | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS left under Bonfire, on 2 underclings. Power up to sharp crimp right hand, into Bonfire & finish. |
| Rigormortis | V10 | ⭐⭐ | SDS as for Ruffneck. Huck out right to sidepull & fall into deep jug undercling pocket. Right hand to intermediate crimp, then bump into Orient crimp. Slap a 2-finger sloping divot & follow lip to TO, above jug. |
| Seep vs the Army of Darkness | V10 | - | Start matched where the two boulders meet, then compress along the fallen prow.
FA: Richard Syracuse |
| Seppuku | V10 | - | Stand start on the undercling horn. Move up and right, turn the lip onto the slab and top out.
FA: Matt Corstorphine |
| Sepuku | V10 | ⭐⭐ | Start slightly center of wall on baseball sized scoop undercling. Up/right on pocket crimps/edges. TO on slab. |
| Stiletto | V10 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Stiletto, left of Cry for Deliverance at the Niagara glen in the Wonderland area. Start on pinch and undercling, trend right and finish up and left.
FA: Jake Tiger |