Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1492 | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Middle. SDS, LH on sidepull, RH on sidepull down low. Up on couple of lousy holds for each hand to 3-finger pocket in middle of face. Grab horn. |
| 4 Star Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS under the right arête. Slap the sides to the top. TO. |
| 8" of Pure Gaston | V4 | - | Same start as seam-in. Use holds on overhang only. Same topout. Has a nice balancey move to get to the face. Also a nice gaston and pinch. |
| Action Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start on 2/3-finger pockets on left arête. Using left sidepull, cruise up to 1/2-finger pocket, right to ledge & finish. (Big pockets right/left out). |
| All Aboard | V4 | - | Start on right side in small pockets. Traverse entire face. Stay low avoiding big jugs on top. |
| Backstroke | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS at bottom of arête, left on large ledge, right on arête. Climb arête until you reach peak. TO. |
| Baguette | V4 | ⭐ | Stand start in the middle of the face, climb straight up and top out. |
| Balance | V4 | ⭐ | Climb up the center of the back face. TO. (Around the right corner from No U-Turn). |
| Banana Soup | V4 | - | SDS on small edges down low on left side. Crank up through a series of small edges to sidepull flake & finish. |
| Beast Under Your Bed | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of scary monsters on nice slopers. Climb up/left on slopers to join arête to TO. |
| Beware! The rock enema! | V4 | - | SDS on slopey rail, use pockets straight up. stay off both aretes. Watch for the pointy rock in the landing. |
| Bloody Tips | V4 | - | Start on God on far right slopey jug. Throw to the top. |
| Bluetips | V4 | ⭐ | Climb left most line on this prominent face following an incipient crack to its flaring end. TO. |
| Buen tacos en mi sombrero | V4 | - | SDS left of prow 12 feet under roof. Lie down to start on 2 four finger slots. Traverse right staying off jugs on lip. Use crimps & pockets to the prow slap the prow and jug TO. variation use the jug at the first prow v3. |
| Cheese | V4 | ⭐ | Stand start at the left side of the boulder just right of the bulge. Climb up through the gastons and pockets to gain the lip and top out. |