Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Elephant House Arête | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start right of Elephant on jugs, out blunt arête, big moves on more jugs. Head up & TO. |
| Existencialistic | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Center of face to right of vertical crack. Start on undercling to left of obviously dangerous undercling. Stay out of vertical crack. Move up left to overhanging arête until you can find the large ledge above. TO not suggested. |
| Exlax | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on awkward start in dihedral & cruise through the open book. |
| Eyes Lay Waste | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Left of Rule on edge of overhang. Right on sidepull on face, left on blunt arête. Up/right on sidepulls, slots, TO at huge mail slot jug at peak of arête. |
| Faith | V4 | ⭐ | SDS at the pinch move up through the overhang to the slabby topout. |
| Fire It Up | V4 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left on crimp and right on sidepull tooth. Up and out right to hold with inset mono. Go up or link into the other problem. TO |
| Floating Seagulls | V4 | - | Start on the 2 handed jug. Move left to arête & traverse onto face & gain the big jug to the TO. |
| Fossil SDS | V4 | ⭐ | SDS with left hand on good crimp under roof, right on giant incut. Pull a cool move and finish as for Fossil Direct. Solid for the grade. |
| Friction Dyno | V4 | ⭐ | Start on the two handed rail of Pulp Friction, paste your feet and dyno straight up to a right handed sloping jug |
| Furry Murray | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Right of Speed is another flat sidepull near an undercling. Up/left, TO above the black flakes. |
| Gary's Highball | V4 | - | Climb the left arête from the bottom ALL the way to the TO. |
| Gateway | V4 | ⭐ | SDS on 2-sided jug, crank up right to small holds, undercling then throw to big pocket on slopey ledge. TO. |
| General Principles | V4 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Traverse the main face staying low. Move left to right. Finish on the big sidepull around the corner. |
| Glory | V4 | - | Sit start on low flakes. Move up and left and finish on the obvious jug. No top out. |
| Happy Gillmore | V4 | ⭐⭐ | Start as for Gill. Right to pinch & small edge. Grab slopey ledge high, dyno to finish jug right of Gill finish. |