Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Total Compression (aka The Sting) | V7 | ⭐⭐ | Start left on double jug. Up/right along faint seam. Leads to horribly slopey holds hidden over lip. Continue along, eventually topping out around right side, on right slab & arête. |
| Under Direct Rule | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Rule, but straight out overhang on pockets & pinch at lip. Scary mantle to TO off right. |
| Vigilante Justice | V7 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS backside in overhang, left on fat pinch, right on bad crimp. Up overhang on cool slopers, rocket to jug at lip. TO left. |
| White Dragon | V7 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right side on sharp undercling & blocky hold. Huge move to pocket at lip, & hit an intermediate to huck to another pocket on face. Head left traversing on pockets/edges through the bulge, TO near a dirty ledge. |
| Life O'Reilly Sit | V7+ | - | Same start as Life O'Reilly, but sit start. |
| Royale With Cheese | V7+ | - | SDS left of Achilles. Move out diagonally on edges, underclings & pinches to lip. Finish on obvious jugs after lip. |
| Bagging Loose Tea | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Left of Anklet's finish is a set of opposing sidepulls, one being very sharp. Start on these to a gaston under the overhang. Climb straight out the overhang on big moves. TO. Mind the impaling tree stump. |
| Big Mac Deal wis Beer | V8 | - | SDS 2m left of Royal on 2 large pockets, out roof on long pulls to pocket at lip, heel hook & slap your way up face. |
| Bilingual | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Start as Asian Friends, climb into Trouble and Strife. |
| Bob's Balancing Balls | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Climb Stitches, through campussy section. Ends with Gary's Dyno. C-shape problem. |
| Chain Reaction | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS underneath bulge, left on incut, right on pinch. Do huge move to Eye Candy start, climb Eye Candy. |
| Cocina | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SS left on big sidepull edge, right on lowest opposing sidepull, bump up to sidepull, bust for jug of Seagulls, TO. |
| Cousteau and Jeannie | V8 | ⭐⭐ | Happy thoughts start. Go up to small crescent crimper then bust over bulge. Then problem is up and over the bulge, not out right. |
| Death Trap | V8 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Brave’ low on slotted pocket & block, up/right to undercling to small left hand crimp, big move to ‘Brave’ pinch with right then cross over to crimp above it then toss to finish horn to right at the lip, TO. |
| Declaration of Faith | V8 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Start at 2 good crimps. Up/right to pocket, up/left to bomber sidepull. Jug ladder to top. |