Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Take Your Pick | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Start as for Epiphany, but left out roof on huge halfway-hidden jug sidepull. Hit lip, then jug traverse right along lip until you can get your feet over lip to TO. |
| The Arrow | V1 | ⭐⭐ | Between the 2 Danzig downclimbs, small roof at base. SDS. Climb roof onto face. Up 2ft long sidepulls to TO. |
| The Dude of Life | V1 | ⭐ | SDS on big moss covered boulder on ledges at far left. Traverse right around bulge to the finish way right. |
| The V Traverse | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on far left side on low pockets right of arête. Traverse right using line of pockets about 5-7ft up. Cross right dihedral to far right arête, pull right around onto mossy face (just before the moss) & reach for top ledge. |
| Thumbtack | V1 | - | SDS on the left side on the rock "seat". Use the four pockets & dyno to the top. |
| Twinkle Toes | V1 | - | Traverse front of boulder. Start at the downhill end, traverse entire face staying under the big jugs at the top. |
| Two Moves for Brother Crawfish | V1 | ⭐⭐ | SDS low on left side in slightly scooped out face. Balance moves to sloper. |
| Up da Middle | V1 | - | SDS on small pockets, move up to gaston & crimper, then to the TO. |
| Vegetarians Complain Too Much | V1 | - | SDS with back to Danzig on handrail. Move up to small crimp, sidepull & slopers to TO. |
| Walking Cuban in the Glen | V1 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Backside of Cube, on far left arete. SDS on obvious holds, up arete to fist size crack just left of tree and TO on positive ledge |
| Who Needs Feet? | V1 | ⭐ | SDS left of Minimalist on jug. traverse lip on good jugs with bad feet (turning corner) until clean TO. |
| Women Hate Me | V1 | - | Left of Y.A.P.P. SDS on two sidepulls & climbs the arête. Use pockets & jugs to hug your way up. TO. |
| Zipper | V1 | - | Start on the far right side. Traverse low while moving left, use the tweaker pockets. Big jugs on top are taboo. |
| A Climb Called Ott | V2 | - | Start just left of Spectacles. Climb through the hollow looking flake & pockets to the big bucket. |
| Afterthought | V2 | ⭐⭐ | Hidden around corner from other problems is a mini-cave with a huge flake system coming out of it. SDS in system & monkey out that to lip, then head up & right to the fun TO. |