Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bad Rootbeer | V3 | - | SDS 2 ft left of hueco, LH on slopey block, RH on slopey sidepull (under slopey block). RF toehook under hueco, LF under hang, pull to V of last problem. throw to jug TO. |
| Beast Man | V3 | ⭐ | SDS 3ft left of right side of boulder on big sidepull/undercling, to inverted v pinch & micro pockets to top jug. TO. |
| Blow Chicks Clothes Off | V3 | ⭐ | Start at 2 side pulls chest high. Move to jug. Use intermediate & move to blocky crimp do long lock off move to jugs. TO. SDS V4 |
| Chuu! | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sit start on a right incut crimp & left ledge. Move up and to the left, cutting through the crimps in the middle of Pica, & hit the closer left side pull. Toss up to the high right side pull & finish on the flakey jug to the left. Watch for the dab on the pad at the start! The left arete, including the closer flakes, are out. |
| City Under the Sea | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS right side on obvious jug, & heel hook. Traverse lip of roof on slopers, staying off top edge of boulder, until you can shoot under roof for left hand edge. Go for jug on left & TO on the point of the roof. |
| Cool | V3 | - | SDS low on 2-finger pocket/knob & edge. Move through edges to the TO staying left of the arête. |
| Dad's Day Out | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Plumbers Crack underneath the roof on the obvious holds. Crank out to the face & over the lip. TO |
| Dangerously Desolate | V3 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Across from Cyclops, SDS grab jug low on left arête. Move right onto face, lunge for pocket left of vertical seam way up high. TO |
| Darwin is Dead | V3 | ⭐ | Start 2ft right of left arête on 2 small crimps. Up on crimps to sloper on arête. Up arête right to notch, TO. |
| Dharma Bums | V3 | ⭐ | Right of tree, SDS on 8-finger edge, left to loose block, stick cool crimpy pocket out right, balancy move to sloping/crimpy pockets & up, keep left of obvious break. TO. |
| Discman | V3 | ⭐ | SDS on far left side on crimp & large sidepull. Traverse right until an undercling. Follow seam up to TO. |
| Do Frogs? | V3 | - | SDS matched on a juggy side pull on the right hand side of the boulder with The Stand. Climb up through edges and interesting grips to finish at the large jug at the peak just right of the finish for The Stand Traverse. The arete is out.
The name of the climb is in reference to the FAist asking if frogs thawing in the spring get screaming barfees.
FA: Daniel Fluder, Prep by David |
| Double Penetration | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS same as Gender but thrust out lip on crimps, head right on sloping pockets to hidden jug; no TO. |
| Drunken Monkeys | V3 | ⭐ | SDS as for Shades. Up to shallow 2-finger pocket, pinch pockets for left. Up on large dish right, finish on big ledges high. |
| Dumb & Dumber | V3 | ⭐⭐ | SDS under huge horn on large sloper. Traverse right to set of flakes. Up flakes until you can step off. |