Niagara Glen
Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.
Sources
- The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
- Numerous social media posts.
Disclaimer
Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.
Routes
| Name | Grade ↑ | Star rating | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| Independent | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on big pocket & large crimp. Up to left slanting crimp, right to right slanting crimp on arête. Bust to jug. |
| K9 Track Suit | V6 | - | Far right of boulder. SDS, left on crimp & undercling (both on +1 grade). Slopers to high step to gain slab. |
| K9 Track Suit Low | V6 | - | Start with both hands on the undercling rail right of K8. Move up and left through slopers to top out. The right arete is out. |
| Little Tree | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS. Climb centerline on small holds, finish on horn. |
| Loco en la Cabesa | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | SDS on the same incut as Sanitarium, climb up blunt arête/bulge on crimp slots, sloper, TO on jugs. |
| Monkey Sweat Unlimited | V6 | ⭐ | SDS on 2 small pockets and a high right foot - throw for sloper. Work through sloper using a variety of intermediate holds and gain horn up & right. Top out is dirty, climb down on the right side. |
| Nintendo Thumb | V6 | ⭐ | SDS right of Sharkey on slanted pocket at lip. Straight up on left-facing sidepulls. Finish on big jug. |
| Open Forum | V6 | ⭐ | SDS left side. RH undercling, LH pinching beside, textured left heel hook. Slap up to slopey dish & big pocket/edge. TO. |
| Paris' Weakness | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS left of ‘Girls’ on sharp tooth and undercling pull with heel-toe cam, head up left to sloper then large move out right to large gaston rail. |
| Pawn Shop | V6 | ⭐ | 3rd prob from the left. SDS left high/right on crimp. Move to really bad right hand crimp to gaston. The rail is out except for the jug on top of it. "Stand Up" top out. |
| Previously Tapped | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Girls on left hand gaston. Do hard drop knee to reach pocket. Climb up to clean TO. |
| Pulp Friction | V6 | - | SDS to the right of Sepukku on a right hand mono and slopy left hand pinch. Grab the right handed juggy crimp, move up to the rail, cross into a blocky crimp, up to a sloping jug, and top out on the slab. |
| Qi | V6 | ⭐⭐ | SDS right of Discern just left of arête on blocky jug system. Use slanted pockets, edges and arête to gain obvious giant jug. Mantle and climb to TO using deep clean pockets. |
| Real Kung-Fu Massacre | V6 | ⭐⭐⭐ | Good right hand edge to a gaston & then up. TO. |
| Ripple | V6 | ⭐ | Start right on wild rippled pocket. Cruise up & left on arête to seam & edges to TO. |