Niagara Glen

Southern Ontario’s premier bouldering destination.

Sources

The Extensive Guidebook PDF. Credit to the original author.
Numerous social media posts.

Disclaimer

Please note that this data is not complete. It is a work in progress. It is not meant to supplant the excellent printed guidebook which you should definitely purchase. This is meant to act as a supplement, and aid in the categorization of the numerous videos we’ve indexed.

Conditions

Dry

🌙 Partly Cloudy🌡️ 20.6°C💨 18.0 km/h SSW💧 66%

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Show 12 areas

Grade Distribution

100

123

V10

V11

V12

V13

Routes

Name	Grade ↑	Star rating	Description
Knee Bar	V3	⭐⭐	SDS
Log Jam	V3	⭐⭐⭐	Right corner of face. SDS, bear hug to sidepulls. Crank up to large sloping rail, TO via slabing top corner.
Loose Caboose	V3	⭐	Start on right arête using pinch & pocket. Traverse entire right face.
Mellow Nasty	V3	⭐	SDS 4ft left of Immaculate on 1/2 moon shaped sidepull. Up/right on slopers & crimps avoiding large pockets.
Mickey Mantle	V3	⭐⭐⭐⭐	Facing river, start on far left arête & traverse lip about as far right as you can comfortably go & mantle.
Middle	V3	⭐	SDS. Cruise up the middle of the face starting on the 2 pockets. TO.
Monolithic	V3	-	Start as for Darlene except use a mono to hit a solid jug out right (bypass the chossy flakes).
Mortal Kombat	V3	-	SDS in middle of boulder. Crank pockets to TO.
Mud Jug	V3	⭐⭐	SDS in the middle of the boulder down low on crimps. Cruise right & across edges to the v-notch TO.
Mud Pies	V3	-	Start on 2 pockets & climb the middle of the face. TO.
Mud Skipper	V3	-	Climb the clean face avoiding the dihedrals on either side.
No Equalibrium	V3	⭐⭐⭐	SDS on crimps &traverse left to right, working a series of fantastic ledges with superb 45' fall away. Mantle on last feature.
No Life...	V3	⭐	SDS low left lip in cave at good holds. Hit lip and go up.
No trees about it	V3	-	SDS right hand on arete, left hand undercling on overhang. slap the lip, mantle over stay off loose blocks out left.
One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest	V3	⭐	To right of Confinement boulder is a triangular boulder cloaked on either side by vines. SDS in middle of face on incut jugs. A big dead point to good crimp, then hit arête, then a big jug out right & TO over the peak.